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Kaya toast

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Kaya toast
Kaya toast with coffee
Alternative namesCoconut jam toast
CourseStaple food
Place of originSingapore
Region or stateSingapore and parts of Malaysia
Associated cuisineSingapore
Created byHainan immigrants
Serving temperatureWarm
Main ingredientskaya (coconut jam) and butter
Glycemic index 49 (low)
Similar dishesFrench Toast

Kaya toast is a traditional Singaporean and Malaysian breakfast item invented by the Hainanese immigrants. The food consists of two slices of toast with butter and kaya (coconut jam), commonly serve alongside coffee and soft-boiled eggs.[1][2] Kaya toast can also be enjoyed in the afternoon as a snack.[2] The introduction of kaya toast happened in close timing with the appearance of kopi tiams or coffee shops. It is speculated that Hainanese immigrants that served the British would use their learnt skills to open these kopi tiam establishments.[3] The popularity of kaya toast is so tightly linked with kopi tiams that even now, shop chains such as Ya Kun Kaya Toast and Killiney Kopitiam continue to assist the popularity of kaya toast in modern times with re-creations and adaptations of the toast.

There are various ways to make kaya, some recipes are passed down from one family member to the other. For example, the Killiney Kopitiam franchise still uses homemade kaya.[3] The complete Hainanese breakfast experience involves cracking a soft-boiled egg into a bowl, sprinkling soy sauce and black pepper, and generously dipping the toast into the mixture before eating it.[4] Kaya toast is best served immediately, the toast should still be warm and the butter cold.[3]

History

Kaya toast dipped into soft-boiled egg

Kaya toast was first introduced by the Hainanese immigrants as part of the menu for kopi tiam establishments (coffee shops), giving it the name Hainanese breakfast. One story claim that the Hainanese immigrants had previously served as cooks for the British residents, while others believed that kaya toast was derived from foods prepared on British ships.[3] The kaya spread was considered a replacement for western fruit jams.[5] The kaya spread itself has also been said to be an influence from the Nyonyas, who often use pandan and coconut milk in their cooking. However, kaya toast itself is an entirely new creation as toasted bread was never a part of Chinese cuisine.

Kopi tiam venues became popular in the 1930s and a decade later, the kaya toast was introduced as a cheap breakfast option aimed at labour workers. Because kaya toast was mainly served at kopi tiams, it followed the rise and fall of the those establishments. In 1996, with only 92 licensed kopi tiams left, kaya toast also declined in popularity. It was not until the 1990s that kaya toast popularity would resurge, the emergence of western snacks being the driving factor. One of the original kopi tiam, Ya Kun Kaya Toast, started its rebranding and established a franchise system. They also introduced new varieties of toasts. This chain of events led to the emergence of other kaya toast establishments, such as the Wang Jiao Kaya Toast and Ah Mei Toast café. Brands would compete for cheaper pricing for the classic Hainanese breakfast. The kaya toast industry attracted the interest of the American-based fast-food chain, McDonald's. The franchise released its western take on kaya toast in June 2005 by offering it as a toasted bun instead of the traditional white bread. Other food retailers would also set up their version of traditional snacks.[6]

In the past, traditional snack shops could only be found in a few locations such as Chinatown and Balestier Road. However, Singapore started actively promoting its street food or hawker fare to tourist via the Singapore Tourism Board (STB). In 1994, the Singapore Tourism Board (STB) held a month-long event to advertise traditional food called the Singaporean Food Festival, now hosted every year. Particularly, in 2004, kaya toast was featured by the Singapore Tourism Board in its "Uniquely Singapore Shop & Eat Tours", serving as the symbol for Chinese local snack.[7]

Government efforts of placing coffee carts situated on the streets into hawker centres also significantly assisted the kaya toast business. As of December 2005, the Singapore foodscape houses an estimate of over 70 outlets selling kaya toast, excluding small coffee-shops that are not listed on the internet or does not have a website. Since then, kaya toast has become a regular item in café and can be found at almost every hawker centre.[8] Many of these outlets, however, were categorized as the emerging copycat business. These copycat entrepreneurs have been commented as lacking originality, solely relying on past ideas belonging to somebody else to make easy money.

It is noted that these new entrepreneurs believe that they are not simply copying but have managed to develop their strategies and produce food based on their creativity. The trend following the success of the business industry was noted to be encouraged by the "kiasu" (fear of losing out in Hokkien) culture. The Singaporean citizen itself has also shown eagerness to get on board the newest food trend to satisfy their cravings.[9]

However, the Singapore food industry was facing a problem with foreign tourists. They are less reluctant to try traditional food due to its unfamiliar ingredients and health concerns. To countermeasure this problem, retailers and shops have made modifications that are classified as "new dishes" and "new cuisine", rather than introducing them as fusions or hybrid food, stating that it is a product of creativity and innovation. For example, Ya Kun Kaya Toast modified their kaya toast preparation method and introduced French toast as part of their menu. While the taste of kaya toast has appealed to Japanese tourists, American tourists were less inclined to try kaya toast as it was too sweet for their palate. The traditional way of eating toast by dipping it into soft-boiled eggs was also seen as another deterrent for western tourists. Retailers would then introduce hard-boiled eggs as part of their breakfast menu. Since the transformation, local vendors have turned into a battle of creativity to create tourist-oriented cuisines.[10]

The preparation method and appearance of kaya toast has changed. Sellers use electric grills instead of the traditional charcoal grills. Previously, hawker workers would use homemade bread but have now opted to order bread supplies from factories. While the methods and ingredients have been simplified, one thing that has yet to change drastically is the kaya spread itself. The kaya spreads used in renowned retailers, such as Yak Kun Kaya Toast and Killiney Kopitiam, are still produced from traditional recipes. It is also worth noting that changes in the method, menu, and economy have not necessarily led to a decline in traditional food sellers. Singapore itself does not prevent the rise of micro-entrepreneurs in the department of traditional food.[10]

Variations

Kaya toast is usually served in two basic forms, on a thin toast or a thick one from white bread. However, it is suitable to use pain de mie, pullman bread, French baguette, ciabatta or any other bread for sandwiches. The recommended serving remains the same across variations, two slices for each person.[3] It is usually accompanied with teh (tea) or kopi (coffee) and a side of two runny soft-boiled eggs, paired with dark soy sauce and white pepper.[11]

The hawker centre committee has also pushed for younger vendors to try working in the centre. This effort led to new varieties of kaya toast flavours such as key lime crème, matcha coconut toast, and black sesame.[1] The kaya spread itself, which is originally green from the pandan leaves, are sometimes replaced with peanut butter,cheese chocolate, durian and even savoury fillings such as hae bee hiam (spicy minced dried shrimps), pork floss, and barbequed pork slices.[11] These new variations suggest that the once "humble" breakfast have developed into a "Uniquely Singapore(an)" snack, as suggested from the tagline by Singapore Tourism Board (STB) in 2004.[7]

Nutrition

Macronutrient Composition[12]
Food Carbohydrate (g/100g) Fat (g/portion) Protein (g/portion) Total energy (kJ/portion)
Kaya toast 46.0 17.6 7.3 1623

One portion of kaya toast (108.7 gram) is categorized as a low Glycemic Index (GI) food with an average score of 49 on the scale.[12]

Ingredients and preparation

The Hainanese breakfast consists of kaya toast, sweetened coffee and soft-cooked eggs.[13]

Firstly, the bread should be sliced into two, which can be thick or thin depending on personal preferences. Traditionally, the bread should be grilled over charcoal to ensure a crunchy and flavorful toast. However, grilling on a pan or toasting the bread also works. Once the bread is toasted, a slice of cold butter is placed on one side of the bread, the process is then repeated on the other slice. Originally, the cold butter is meant to soften from the combined heat exposure from the toast and tropical weather. Finally, the kaya jam should be spread on top of the cold butter.[3]

To enjoy the Hainanese breakfast as per tradition, the soft-cooked egg should be cracked in a bowl, adding soy sauce and white pepper to taste. Then the kaya toast should be generously dipped into it before being enjoyed. It is best served immediately; the butter should still be cold when eaten.[3]

If kaya is not available, it is suggested to make a coconut chocolate spread as a replacement. Shaving fresh coconut and chocolate on top of the cold butter and pressing the second piece of toast over it before serving.[3]

Media coverage

A Ya Kun Kaya Toast restaurant

Kaya toast is one of the most extensively advertised traditional snack, along with curry puffs, soybean milk, and moon-cakes. Press report, local television programs, and food guides on traditional snack continue to encourage market growth and establish the position of traditional snacks, including kaya toast, as a popular culture icon in Singapore. The media coverage of traditional food has also helped raise cultural awareness and knowledge for Singaporeans.[14]

The kaya toast has been featured in several media, following the growth of Chinese snacks in Singapore. These articles include:[15][16]

  • "Spread Some Love Around" by Straits Times, published on the 5th of December 1999.
  • "Toast of The Town" by Business Times, published on 24th of June 2003.
  • "Kaya War Spreads" by Straits Times, published on 17th of August 2003.
  • "Now, who Is The Toast of The Town?" by Straits Times, published on 22nd of May 2005.
  • "Toast with The Most" by The New Paper, published on 26th of June 2005.
  • "Kaya Jam Anyone?" by The Daily Yomiuri, published on 6th of August 2005.
  • "A Toast to Kaya and Peanut Butter Bombs" by The New Paper, published on 1st of September 2005.

On December 2006, the Straits Times published the headline "Toast Masters" reviewing that there were at least four bakery chains and cafés that have incorporated kaya toast into their product list, besides Ah Mei and Wang Jiao. In 2007, local food guide "Makansutra Singapore" has also included a section called "Kaya Toast" in their guide and encourage stalls to sell more of it.[17]

In popular culture

  • In January 2013, a local food-inspired exhibition titled “Makan Time! Tuck In To Good Design.” was held at The National Museum of Singapore by the design collective “Little Thoughts Group”. The exhibition ran for two weeks and included a showcase of the Hainanese breakfast consisting of coffee or tea, kaya toast and two half-boiled eggs, with soy sauce and black pepper. The art piece was presented by Lee Leong Chye to honour the traditional breakfast, calling it “Our Humble Breakfast.”.[4]
  • During a Singapo(ren): Discovering Chinese Singaporean Culture exhibition, kaya toast was described as part of the evolution of Chinese-Singaporean identity.[5]
  • Three Michelin stars chef, Hideki Ishikawa, refers to kaya toast as one of his favourite dishes during his stay in Singapore.[18]
  • Kaya toast was featured on the Korean TV show called “Happy Together”, in the Late Night Cafeteria segment. Guests of the show included Sistar, 4Minute, and Super Junior was told to create dishes with limited cost and time. Dasom from Sistar created kaya toast which she described as a dessert in Singapore that she enjoyed. Hyuna from 4Minute also exclaimed that the K-pop group love the snack. During Dasom’s explanation of kaya toast preparation, Hyuna added that cheese can be included as well. Yoo Jae-Suk, host and judge of the show, noted that it was delicious, sweet and savoury at the same time. Other guests stared in envy and demanded that they get a taste.[19]

Further reading

  • Lynch. Rene (July 22, 2009). "Sending out an SOS for the Kaya Toast at Susan Feniger's Street". Los Angeles Times. Retrieved 2 December 2013.

See also

References

  1. ^ a b Tarulevicz, NT, and S Hudd. "From Natural History to National Kitchen: Food In The Museums Of Singapore, 2006¬-2017". Digest: A Journal of Foodways and Culture 6, no. 2329-4787 (2017): 18 - 44. http://digest.champlain.edu/article6_2.html.
  2. ^ a b The Hindu. "Kaya Toast", 2012. https://www.thehindu.com/todays-paper/tp-features/tp-metroplus/kaya-toast/article2979801.ece.
  3. ^ a b c d e f g h Chu, Louisa. "Breakfast Quest in Singapore: Looking for History On Toast". Chicago Tribune, 2016. https://www.chicagotribune.com/dining/recipes/sc-singapore-breakfast-quest-food-0422-20160420-story.html.
  4. ^ a b Tarulevicz, NT, and S Hudd. “From Natural History to National Kitchen: Food In The Museums Of Singapore, 2006¬-2017”. Digest: A Journal of Foodways and Culture 6, no. 2329-4787 (2017): 18 - 44. http://digest.champlain.edu/article6_2.html.
  5. ^ a b Zaccheus, Melody. “Take A Culture Trip With Luoli, Kaya And Toast”. The Sunday Times, 2020. https://www.straitstimes.com/singapore/take-a-culture-trip-with-luoli-kaya-and-toast.
  6. ^ Leong, S. “Toast to toast”. The Straits Times, 2006.
  7. ^ a b Singapore Tourism Board. “STB to Launch ‘Uniquely Singapore Shop & Eat Tours’”, 2004. http://app.stb.gov.sg/asp/new/new03a.asp?id=1163
  8. ^ Stone, George W. "Obsessions Breakfast." National Geographic Traveler, 2016.
  9. ^ Bravó-Bhasin, Marion. 2014. Culture Shock! Singapore: A Survival Guide To Customs And Etiquette. 3rd ed. Marshall Cavendish International.
  10. ^ a b Cite error: The named reference Leong was invoked but never defined (see the help page).
  11. ^ a b JS, Harikumar. 2020. "Toast Of The City-State: Kaya Toast". The Hindu, , 2020. https://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/travel/kaya-toast-singapore/article25740749.ece%7Curl-status=live.
  12. ^ a b Sun L, Lee DE, Tan WJ, Ranawana DV, Quek YC, Goh HJ, Henry CJ (March 2015). "Glycaemic index and glycaemic load of selected popular foods consumed in Southeast Asia". Br J Nutr. 113 (5): 843–8. doi:10.1017/S0007114514004425. PMID 25716365.
  13. ^ The Hindu. “Kaya Toast”, 2012. https://www.thehindu.com/todays-paper/tp-features/tp-metroplus/kaya-toast/article2979801.ece.
  14. ^ Teo, P.L. “Toast Masters”. 2006. http://www.stomp.com.sg/stfoodiesclub/taste/35/index.html
  15. ^ Wee, L. “Spread some love around “. The Straits Times, 1999.
  16. ^ Ng, S. “Now who ís the toast of the town ?”. The Straits Times, 2005.
  17. ^ Makansutra. “The Singapore Street Food Masters 2007”, 2007. Accessed August 30, 2007, from http://www.makansutra.com/events/ssfm2007.html
  18. ^ Ee, Jaime. “Chef Koji Koizumi, From Three-Michelin Starred Kohaku, Enjoys Chilli Crab And Kaya Toast”. The Straits Times, 2017. https://www.straitstimes.com/lifestyle/food/chef-koji-koizumi-from-three-michelin-starred-kohaku-enjoys-chilli-crab-and-k
  19. ^ Chiu, Peace. “Sistar’S Dasom And 4Minute’S Hyuna Like Singapore’S Kaya Toast”. Singapore Showbiz, 2020. https://sg.style.yahoo.com/blogs/singapore-showbiz/sistar-dasom-4minute-hyuna-singapore-kaya-toast-052312623.html.

External links