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[[File:Short_Tapered_Back_And_Sides.JPG|thumb|80px]]
[[File:Short_Tapered_Back_And_Sides.JPG|thumb|80px]]
Other names for this style of taper include '''full crown''', '''tight cut''', and '''fade'''.{{sfn|Booker|1892|p=24}}{{sfn|Modern Barber College|1946|p=50}}{{sfn|Moler|1905|p=40-43}}{{sfn|Moler|1928|p=41-45}}{{sfn|Moler|1928|p=100}}{{sfn|Scali-Snipes|1999|p=282}}{{sfn|Thorpe|1958|p=133}} The hair on the sides and back is cut with a coarse clipper blade from the lower edge of hair growth to or nearly full up to the crown. The clipper is gradually arced out of the hair at the hat band to achieve a taper. A fine clipper is used from the sideburn to about an inch above the ear. Clipper lines are blended out so there is a seamless transition between lengths.{{sfn|Moler|1928|p=100-103}}{{sfn|Thorpe|1958|p=129}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=98}} Often worn by men and boys during the summer.{{sfn|Moler|1928|p=94}}
Other names for this style of taper include '''full crown''', '''tight cut''', and '''fade'''.{{sfn|Booker|1892|p=24}}{{sfn|Modern Barber College|1946|p=50}}{{sfn|Moler|1905|p=40-43}}{{sfn|Moler|1928|p=41-45}}{{sfn|Moler|1928|p=100}}{{sfn|Scali-Snipes|1999|p=282}}{{sfn|Thorpe|1958|p=133}} The hair on the sides and back is cut with a coarse clipper blade from the lower edge of hair growth to or nearly full up to the crown. The clipper is gradually arced out of the hair at the hat band to achieve a taper. A fine clipper is used from the sideburn to about an inch above the ear. Clipper lines are blended out so there is a seamless transition between lengths.{{sfn|Moler|1928|p=100-103}}{{sfn|Thorpe|1958|p=129}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=98}} Often worn by men and boys during the summer.{{sfn|Moler|1928|p=94}}
<div style="margin-top:75px;">


===Semi-Short===
===Semi-Short===
[[File:Semi_short_taper_basketball.jpg|thumb|95px]]
[[File:Semi_short_taper_basketball.jpg|thumb|95px]]
Also known as a '''half crown'''.{{sfn|Modern Barber College|1946|p=51}}{{sfn|Moler|1905|p=41-45}}{{sfn|Moler|1928|p=91}} The hair on the sides and back is cut with a coarse clipper blade about half way up to the crown; the clipper starts to gradually arc out of the hair at the top of the ears. A fine clipper blade is used at the sideburns and at the nape arcing out of the hair to create a blend at a point between the bottom and the top of the ears.{{sfn|Moler|1928|p=91-99}} {{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=130}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=99}} The half crown is favored by certain men and boys during the summer.{{sfn|Moler|1928|p=94}}
Also known as a '''half crown'''.{{sfn|Modern Barber College|1946|p=51}}{{sfn|Moler|1905|p=41-45}}{{sfn|Moler|1928|p=91}} The hair on the sides and back is cut with a coarse clipper blade about half way up to the crown; the clipper starts to gradually arc out of the hair at the top of the ears. A fine clipper blade is used at the sideburns and at the nape arcing out of the hair to create a blend at a point between the bottom and the top of the ears.{{sfn|Moler|1928|p=91-99}} {{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=130}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=99}} The half crown is favored by certain men and boys during the summer.{{sfn|Moler|1928|p=94}}
<div style="margin-top:75px;">


===Medium===
===Medium===
[[File:Medium_Taper_Cut._Kennedy.jpg|thumb|105px]]
[[File:Medium_Taper_Cut._Kennedy.jpg|thumb|105px]]
A coarse clipper blade may be used on the sideburns, with the clipper immediately arcing out of the hair, completing the taper at the top of the ears. In the nape area, the coarse clipper starts to arc out at the middle of the ears with the taper completed at the top of the ears. A fine clipper blade tapers the lower edge of the hairline at the nape to the skin.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=130}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=99}}
A coarse clipper blade may be used on the sideburns, with the clipper immediately arcing out of the hair, completing the taper at the top of the ears. In the nape area, the coarse clipper starts to arc out at the middle of the ears with the taper completed at the top of the ears. A fine clipper blade tapers the lower edge of the hairline at the nape to the skin.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=130}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=99}}
<div style="margin-top:75px;">


===Long===
===Long===
[[File:Long_Taper_Cut_1943.JPG|thumb|105px]]
[[File:Long_Taper_Cut_1943.JPG|thumb|105px]]
A coarse clipper blade is used in the nape area, arcing out of the hair at the bottom of the ears with the taper completed at mid ear. A fine clipper blade is used to taper the edge at the hairline.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=131}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=99}}
A coarse clipper blade is used in the nape area, arcing out of the hair at the bottom of the ears with the taper completed at mid ear. A fine clipper blade is used to taper the edge at the hairline.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=131}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=99}}
<div style="margin-top:85px;">


===Extra Long===
===Extra Long===
[[File:Extra_Long_Taper_Cut.jpg|thumb|90px]]
[[File:Extra_Long_Taper_Cut.jpg|thumb|90px]]
A coarse clipper blade is used in the nape, immediately arcing out of the hair, with the taper completed below the bottom of the ears. A fine clipper blade may be used to taper the lower edge of the hairline to the skin.{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=99-100}}
A coarse clipper blade is used in the nape, immediately arcing out of the hair, with the taper completed below the bottom of the ears. A fine clipper blade may be used to taper the lower edge of the hairline to the skin.{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=99-100}}
<div style="margin-top:115px;">


==Guards and Blades==
==Guards and Blades==

Revision as of 20:02, 1 July 2013

Regular haircut

A regular haircut is a men's and boy's hairstyle that has combable length on top, a defined or deconstructed side part, and a short, semi-short, medium, long, or extra long back and sides.[1][2][3] The style is also known by other names including taper cut, regular taper cut, side-part and standard haircut; as well as short back and sides, business-man cut and professional cut, subject to varying national, regional, and local interpretations of the specific taper for the back and sides.[4][5][6][7] The three elements of a regular haircut are edging, siding and topping.[8][9][10] Edging refers to the design of the lower edge of hair growth from the sideburns around the ears and across the nape of the neck.[8][11] Siding refers to the design of the hair on the back and sides between the edge and the top.[8][12] Topping refers to the design of the hair at the front and over the crown.[8][13] Edging comes first, followed by siding and topping.[8][14] Edging is typically done with clippers; siding, shears over comb; topping, shears over finger.[11][15] There are other methods that can be utilized including all clipper cuts, all shears cuts and all razor cuts. Barbers distinguish between a two line haircut and a one line haircut.[16][7] Two line haircuts are standard taper cuts.[17][7] The hair is outlined around the ears and then straight down the sides of the neck.[17][7] The edge of hair growth at the nape of the neck is tapered to the skin with a fine(zero) clipper blade.[18][19] A one line haircut, often referred to as a block cut has the edge of hair growth at the nape outline shaved, creating an immediate transition between hair and skin and connecting the outline from the right sideburn to the outline from the left sideburn across the nape.[20][7] The outline at the edge of the nape can be in a squared off or rounded pattern. A squared off nape can have squared or rounded corners.[20][7] [21]

Tapers

Short

Other names for this style of taper include full crown, tight cut, and fade.[22][23][24][25][26][27][28] The hair on the sides and back is cut with a coarse clipper blade from the lower edge of hair growth to or nearly full up to the crown. The clipper is gradually arced out of the hair at the hat band to achieve a taper. A fine clipper is used from the sideburn to about an inch above the ear. Clipper lines are blended out so there is a seamless transition between lengths.[29][30][31] Often worn by men and boys during the summer.[32]

Semi-Short

Also known as a half crown.[33][34][35] The hair on the sides and back is cut with a coarse clipper blade about half way up to the crown; the clipper starts to gradually arc out of the hair at the top of the ears. A fine clipper blade is used at the sideburns and at the nape arcing out of the hair to create a blend at a point between the bottom and the top of the ears.[36] [37][38] The half crown is favored by certain men and boys during the summer.[32]

Medium

A coarse clipper blade may be used on the sideburns, with the clipper immediately arcing out of the hair, completing the taper at the top of the ears. In the nape area, the coarse clipper starts to arc out at the middle of the ears with the taper completed at the top of the ears. A fine clipper blade tapers the lower edge of the hairline at the nape to the skin.[37][38]

Long

A coarse clipper blade is used in the nape area, arcing out of the hair at the bottom of the ears with the taper completed at mid ear. A fine clipper blade is used to taper the edge at the hairline.[39][38]

Extra Long

A coarse clipper blade is used in the nape, immediately arcing out of the hair, with the taper completed below the bottom of the ears. A fine clipper blade may be used to taper the lower edge of the hairline to the skin.[40]

Guards and Blades

Three types of clippers can be utilized to achieve a regular haircut: taper clippers, rotary clippers and outliner/edger clippers.[41] Taper clippers are powered by a linear or pivot motor. The blades are not readily interchangeable. Taper clippers have an adjustable taper lever that sets the cutting length within a certain range, usually from #000 blade length, 1/50"(0.5 mm) on the fine side to #1 length, 3/32"(2.4 mm) on the coarse side. For longer lengths, clipper guards are attached. The guard will cut at the numbered guard length when the taper lever is in the shortest cutting position. Clipper guards are also known as clipper guide combs.[42] [43] Fade clippers are identical to taper clippers with the exception of the range of cutting lengths which is entirely within the fine blade range. Most fade clippers cut between #00000 blade length, 1/125"(0.2 mm) and #000 blade length, 1/50"(0.5 mm. As with regular taper clippers, clipper guards can be attached for longer cutting lengths.[44] Rotary clippers have blades that readily snap on and off. Blades are available that leave from 1/250”(0.1mm) to 3/4”(19mm) of hair on the scalp when the clipper is guided over the head with the teeth of the clipper blade in contact with the scalp. Blades are numbered differently than guards. Rotary clippers are designed to accept a certain standard blade type, so that blades from a variety of manufacturers designed to the specific standard may be utilized on a clipper designed to that standard, regardless of manufacturer.[45][46] Outliner/edger clippers have a very fine cutting blade and no taper lever and are used to outline a defined arch around the ear and for block cuts, the edge at the nape of the neck. [47][48][49][50][51][41]

Guards

Human scalp hair grows on average about one eighth inch per week or one half inch per month.[52] Most clipper guards are numbered in eighths of an inch. The number of the guard denotes the number of week's hair growth left on the scalp when a clipper with a certain numbered guard is guided over the head with the guard in contact with the scalp. A #1 guard leaves 1/8"(3mm), one week's growth of hair growth on the scalp; a #2 guard leaves 2/8"(6.3mm), two week's hair growth, on the scalp; a #3 guard leaves 3/8"(9mm), three week's hair growth, on the scalp; and so on.[42]

Blades

Fine cutting blades (also referred to as zero blades):

a #000000 blade leaves 1/250"(0.1mm), 5 hours of hair growth, on the scalp.

a #00000 blade leaves 1/125"(0.2mm), 10 hours of hair growth, on the scalp.

a #0000 blade leaves 1/100"(0.3mm), 15 hours of hair growth, on the scalp.

a #0000A blade leaves 1/75"(0.4mm), 20 hours of hair growth, on the scalp.

a #000 blade leaves 1/50"(0.5mm), one day of hair growth, on the scalp.

a #00 blade leaves 1/30"(0.8mm), a day and a half of hair growth, on the scalp.

a #0 blade leaves 1/25"(1mm), two days of hair growth, on the scalp.

an #0A blade leaves 3/64"(1.2mm), 2.5 days of hair growth, on the scalp.


Medium coarse cutting blades, #1, #1A, #1.5:

a #1 Blade leaves 3/32"(2.4mm), 5 days of hair growth, on the scalp.

a #1A blade leaves 1/8"(3.2mm), one week of hair growth, on the scalp.

a #1.5 blade leaves 5/32"(4.0mm), 9 days of hair growth, on the scalp.


Full coarse cutting blades, #2, #3.5 and #3.75:

a #2 blade leaves 1/4"(6mm), two weeks of hair growth, on the scalp.

a #3.5 blade leaves 3/8"(10 mm), three weeks of hair growth, on the scalp.

a #3.75 blade leaves 1/2"(13mm), four weeks of hair growth, on the scalp.


Longer cutting blades:

a 5/8 H/T leaves 5/8"(16 mm), five weeks of hair growth, on the scalp.

a 3/4 H/T leaves 3/4"(19 mm), six weeks of hair growth, on the scalp.

[53][41]

See also

References

  1. ^ Thorpe 1967, p. 129-131.
  2. ^ Thorpe 1958, p. 133-139.
  3. ^ Trusty 1971, p. 98-101.
  4. ^ Scali-Snipes 1999, p. 188.
  5. ^ Thorpe 1967, p. 122.
  6. ^ Stewart 2003, p. 188.
  7. ^ a b c d e f Trusty 1971, p. 97.
  8. ^ a b c d e Thorpe 1967, p. 118.
  9. ^ Thorpe 1958, p. 131.
  10. ^ Trusty 1971, p. 61-62.
  11. ^ a b Trusty 1971, p. 62-63.
  12. ^ Trusty 1971, p. 68.
  13. ^ Trusty 1971, p. 70.
  14. ^ Trusty 1971, p. 61.
  15. ^ Thorpe 1967, p. 118-120.
  16. ^ Thorpe 1967, p. 133-134.
  17. ^ a b Thorpe 1967, p. 113-115.
  18. ^ Thorpe 1967, p. 103.
  19. ^ Trusty 1971, p. 110-111.
  20. ^ a b Thorpe 1967, p. 115.
  21. ^ Moler 1928, p. 90.
  22. ^ Booker 1892, p. 24.
  23. ^ Modern Barber College 1946, p. 50.
  24. ^ Moler 1905, p. 40-43.
  25. ^ Moler 1928, p. 41-45.
  26. ^ Moler 1928, p. 100.
  27. ^ Scali-Snipes 1999, p. 282.
  28. ^ Thorpe 1958, p. 133.
  29. ^ Moler 1928, p. 100-103.
  30. ^ Thorpe 1958, p. 129.
  31. ^ Trusty 1971, p. 98.
  32. ^ a b Moler 1928, p. 94.
  33. ^ Modern Barber College 1946, p. 51.
  34. ^ Moler 1905, p. 41-45.
  35. ^ Moler 1928, p. 91.
  36. ^ Moler 1928, p. 91-99.
  37. ^ a b Thorpe 1967, p. 130.
  38. ^ a b c Trusty 1971, p. 99.
  39. ^ Thorpe 1967, p. 131.
  40. ^ Trusty 1971, p. 99-100.
  41. ^ a b c Thorpe 1967, p. 54.
  42. ^ a b Andis (2003), Model ML (PDF) Cite error: The named reference "Eok" was defined multiple times with different content (see the help page).
  43. ^ Oster (2013), Model 76023-510
  44. ^ Andis (2004), Form 01604 (PDF)
  45. ^ Oster (2013), Classic 76 Clipper Blades
  46. ^ Thorpe 1967, p. 55.
  47. ^ Andis (2003), Form 04942 (PDF)
  48. ^ Andis (2003), Form 04941 (PDF)
  49. ^ Andis (2007), Form 15341 (PDF)
  50. ^ Oster (2013), Model 76059-010
  51. ^ Oster (2013), Model 76059-030
  52. ^ Victoria Sherrow (2006), Encyclopedia of hair, ISBN 9780313331459
  53. ^ Oster (2013), Classic 76 Clipper Blades


Bibliography

  • Booker, Benjamin (1892). The Secret of Barbering. Unattributed Publisher. {{cite book}}: Invalid |ref=harv (help)
  • Modern Barber College (1946). Modern Textbook of Barbering. Modern Barber College. {{cite book}}: Invalid |ref=harv (help)
  • Moler, A.B. (1905). The Barbers', Hairdressers' and Manicurers' Manual. Unnattributed Publisher. {{cite book}}: Invalid |ref=harv (help)
  • Moler, A.B. (1928). Standardized Barbers' Manual. Unnattributed Publisher. {{cite book}}: Invalid |ref=harv (help)
  • Scali-Snipes, Mara (1999). Milady's Standard Textbook of Professional Barber Styling. Milady Publishing Corporation. {{cite book}}: Invalid |ref=harv (help)
  • Stewart, Helen; Ford, Gilly (2003). Hairdressing with Barbering. Heinemann Educational Publishers. {{cite book}}: Invalid |ref=harv (help)
  • Thorpe, S.C. (1958). Practice and Science of Standard Barbering. Milady Publishing Corporation. {{cite book}}: Invalid |ref=harv (help)
  • Thorpe, S.C. (1967). Practice and Science of Standard Barbering. Milady Publishing Corporation. {{cite book}}: Invalid |ref=harv (help)
  • Trusty, L. Sherman (1971). The Art and Science of Barbering. Wolfer Printing Co. {{cite book}}: Invalid |ref=harv (help)