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Moynat

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Moynat
Founded1849
FounderPauline Moynat, Octavie et François Coulembier
Headquarters348, rue Saint Honoré,
Paris, France
Key people
ProductsTrunks, Leather Goods, Handbags, Perfume, Cologne, Shoulder Bags, Tote Bag, Accessories
Websitemoynat.com

Moynat is a Parisian trunkmaker, founded in Paris in 1849 by Octavie and François Coulembier.[1] They collaborated with a specialist in travel goods, named Pauline Moynat, to open the company's first store at Avenue de l'Opera. The house is notable for its innovations in making trunks lighter and waterproof, and for its participation in the various World's Fairs.[2]

History

1849-1876

The House of Moynat was the result of a meeting between Pauline Moynat (the only women trunk-maker at the time), who sold travel goods in the Opera district of Paris, and the Coulembier family, manufacturers from the faubourgs – the inner suburbs to the north of the city.[3]

In 1849, the trunk makers opened their first atelier. They joined forces with Pauline Moynat to open the Moynat boutique in 1869 on what was then the Place du Théâtre Français (now the Place André Malraux) opposite the famous Comédie-Française.[3]

Innovation

Moynat patented its first inventions for packaging materials in 1854.[4] The label was the first to use hardened gutta-percha waterproofing to produce its trunks and packing boxes. In 1870, Moynat brought out the wicker trunk, known as the "English trunk" or "Moynat trunk",[5] a lightweight structure consisting of a wicker frame, covered with a varnished canvas and leather trimming. The product weighed a mere two kilos and was highly sought after by travellers wishing to avoid excess baggage fees.[citation needed]

The boutique was situated at the heart of Haussmann’s redesigned Paris, and following the construction of the Avenue de l'Opéra in 1876, it took pride of place at nº.1, later to become the oldest shop on the avenue.[6]

  • A Moynat horse cart, 1880
    A Moynat horse cart, 1880
  • The first Moynat Boutique Avenue de l'Opéra in 1869
    The first Moynat Boutique Avenue de l'Opéra in 1869
  • Interior of the Moynat Boutique, 1907
    Interior of the Moynat Boutique, 1907

1905-1910

Collaboration with Henri Rapin

In 1905, the Moynat began a long-lasting collaboration with Henri Rapin, creative director. Rapin designed the logos of the House, the Moynat monogram, illustrated the product catalogues and conceived the models presented at universal and international exhibitions.[citation needed]

In 1907 the Coulembier family began construction on a model-factory at 15, rue Coysevox up at Montmartre. With some 1500m² of space situated in a four-story building, the factory employed more than 250 workers. Most employees at the factory were specialist artisans who built all the Moynat trunks. For the first time ever in Paris all the specialist skills associated with trunk-making were gathered together in one place.[citation needed]

  • The Coulembier brothers, Moynat directors, 1906
    The Coulembier brothers, Moynat directors, 1906
  • The Moynat factory, rue Coysevox in 1907
    The Moynat factory, rue Coysevox in 1907

In 1889 Jules Coulembier perfected a whole new system of lightweight trunks, followed in 1910 by the invention of an extra-light, unbreakable model.[4]

The House of Moynat also produced a series of security mechanisms for its trunks.[4]

1910-1925

Moynat was a regular participant in World's Fairs since the second edition in Paris in 1867. The house also took part in the Exposition universelle in Paris in 1900, Brussels in 1910[7] and was appointed jury member at the Turin exhibition in 1911, and was awarded two gold medals and two special prizes at Ghent in 1913.[8]

However, it was in 1925 that Moynat broke the record at the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels,[9] where its automobile trunks were a great success, awarded a Diplôme d’Honneur by its peers together with a number of gold, silver and bronze medals,[10] a record of achievement that distinguished Moynat as the leading French malletier (trunk maker) of the time.[10]

1925-1976

The destiny of the House of Moynat and three generations of Coulembier

The collaboration between Pauline Moynat and the family of manufacturers began with François Coulembier, continuing with his sons Jules Ferdinand, Edmond, Louis and Maurice. The house reached the height of its commercial powers under the direction of the founder's grandsons, profiting from the rise of the automobile to become a design reference in the context of this new mode of transport.[citation needed]

The business remained in the hands of the Coulembier family until 1976.[citation needed]

The Moynat boutique became an institution, staying open continuously for well over a hundred years until 1976.[citation needed]

After the Coulembier

Moynat closed its boutique at the Place du Théâtre Français in 1976. Its trunks however, continued to travel around the world. The Scholl family bought the rights to the house in the early 1980s for use by its company Malles et Voyages.

1989-1999

Orcofi, the Vuitton family's holding company, bought Malles et Voyages in 1989, following the disposal of the bulk of its shares in LVMH. Orcofi's CEO, Vuitton's former President Henry Racamier (1912-2003), had planned to relaunch Moynat as a competitor to Louis Vuitton. However, Orcofi was eventually sold to AXA in 1996 and its assets were stripped, thus the ambitious plans to relaunch Moynat never saw the light of day.[citation needed]

2000-Present

Luxury goods holding company, Luvanis SA, bought the rights into Moynat in the late 2000s, and developed a revival plan and assigned the brand to Groupe Arnault. LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault's holding company bought Moynat in 2010.[11]

LVMH hired designer Ramesh Nair to be artistic director for Moynat.[citation needed]

In December 2011, Moynat reopened with a flagship store at 348 Rue Saint-Honoré,[12][13] followed by shops in London in 2014,[14] Hong Kong,[15] Beijing in 2015, Tokyo,[16] New York,[17] Seoul,[18] Taipei in 2016, Singapore in 2017,[19] and Dubai in 2018.[20]

New creative director, Nicholas Knightly was hired in November of 2022. Knightly aims to build on the brands recognition, craftsmanship, and working with connoisseurs to attract a younger crowd to the brand.[21]

December 2022, musician, Pharrell Williams partnered on the launch of a bag in collaboration with Moynat.[22]

In 2023, Moynat scheduled a world tour, the Moynat World Tour.[1][23][24] It consists of a roving pop-up based on personalization of their handbags and luggage.[1] The tour launched in Paris at Le Bon Marche Rive Gauche on February 18.[25] The tour also celebrated and coincided with the 103rd anniversary of Moynats Toile 1920 M, their canvas that is used for their made-to-order luggage.[1][25][26]

See also

References

  1. ^ a b c d Socha, Miles (2023-01-09). "Moynat Is Packing Its Trunks With a New Personalization Pop-up". WWD. Retrieved 2023-05-22.
  2. ^ "The reinvention of one of France's oldest luxury brands, Moynat – interview". South China Morning Post. 2022-11-18. Retrieved 2023-06-15.
  3. ^ a b "French Fancies: Moynat". View from the Back. 2022-09-25. Retrieved 2023-06-07.
  4. ^ a b c National Industrial Property Institute (France)
  5. ^ Le Gaulois, October 10, 1873
  6. ^ L'Illustration
  7. ^ Comité Français des Expositions à l'Étranger, Groupe XV classe 99, industrie du caoutchouc et de la gutta-percha, exposition universelle et internationale de Bruxelles 1910, Georges Vuitton reporting
  8. ^ Comité Français des Expositions à l'Étranger, Groupe XV classe 99, industrie du caoutchouc et de la gutta-percha, exposition universelle et internationale de Gand 1913, Lamy-Thorrilhon reporting
  9. ^ Catalogue Général de l'Exposition Universelle de 1867
  10. ^ a b Journal Officiel de la République Française, January 5, 1926
  11. ^ Narayan, Shoba (2012-03-06). "Arnault Eyes Bags of Potential in Trunk-Maker". Financial Times.
  12. ^ Socha, Miles (2011-12-01). "Bernard Arnault Revives Trunk Maker Moynat". Women's Wear Daily. Retrieved 2018-02-02.
  13. ^ Murphy, Robert (2012-06-28). "Luxury Trunks, Reinvented". Wall Street Journal. ISSN 0099-9660. Retrieved 2018-02-02.
  14. ^ Conti, Samantha (2014-03-13). "Moynat Marks Opening of London Store". Women's Wear Daily. Retrieved 2018-02-02.
  15. ^ Sheng, Ellen (2015-01-09). "Moynat Hits Hong Kong". Women's Wear Daily. Retrieved 2018-02-02.
  16. ^ Socha, Miles (2016-02-15). "Moynat Readies First Tokyo Boutique". Women's Wear Daily. Retrieved 2018-02-02.
  17. ^ Cohn, Alison S. (2016-03-23). "Moynat Sets Up Shop on Madison Avenue". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2018-02-02.
  18. ^ Ho-jung, Won (2016-08-18). "Moynat comes to Korea". The Korea Herald. Retrieved 2018-02-02.
  19. ^ Seah, May (2017-09-28). "Luxury goods brand Moynat lauds Defu Lane tannery". The Straits Times. Retrieved 2018-02-02.
  20. ^ Upadhyay, Ritu (2018-03-08). "Moynat Sets Dubai Boutique". Women's Wear Daily. Retrieved 2018-05-25.
  21. ^ "The reinvention of one of France's oldest luxury brands, Moynat – interview". South China Morning Post. 2022-11-18. Retrieved 2023-07-19.
  22. ^ "Don't Call It a Murse: Pharrell Williams on the Launch of His Moynat Bag Collaboration at DSM". Vogue. 2014-12-04. Retrieved 2023-05-25.
  23. ^ "Moynat Makes Miami and Palm Beach the Next Two Stops on its World Tour". www.culturedmag.com. Retrieved 2023-06-27.
  24. ^ Socha, Miles (2023-01-09). "Moynat Is Packing Its Trunks With a New Personalization Pop-up". WWD. Retrieved 2023-07-19.
  25. ^ a b US, FashionNetwork com. "Moynat kicks off world tour in Paris". FashionNetwork.com. Retrieved 2023-05-22.
  26. ^ "Moynat is Making the Personal Global". www.culturedmag.com. Retrieved 2023-05-25.

Bibliography

  • Bagages en escale, Musée de la Chemiserie et de l'Elégance Masculine
  • Barre Fils, M.A. de la, De la Gutta-Percha et de son application aux dentures artificielles, Victor Masson, 1852
  • Brunhammer, Yvonne, Catalogue de l’exposition des Porcelaines de Sèvres de style Art Déco au musée Teien de Tokyo 1993
  • Caracalla, Jean-Paul, Le goût du Voyage – Histoire de la Compagnie des Wagons-lits, Flammarion, 2001
  • Centorame, Bruno (dir.), Autour de la Madeleine. Art, littérature et Société, Paris, Action artistique de la Ville de Paris, 2005
  • Chapel, Edmond, Le Caoutchouc et la Gutta-Percha, Ed. Marchal et Billiard, 1892
  • Devauges, Jean-Denys, Le voyage en France : du maître de poste au chef de gare, 1740–1914, Réunion des musées nationaux, 1997
  • Espanet, Luisa, Valises & Compagnies, Genleman Editeur, 1987
  • Gregory, Alexis, L'âge d'or dur voyage 1880-1939, Chêne, 1990
  • Havard, Henry, Dictionnaire de l'ameublement et de la décoration depuis le XIIIe siècle jusqu’à nos jours, Fairault, 1901.
  • Invitation au voyage, catalogue de l'exposition organisé par l'Union Centrale des Ars décoratifs, Paris, musée des Arts décoratifs, 1987
  • Kjellberg, Pierre, Art Déco, les maîtres du mobilier, le décor des paquebots, Éditions de l'Amateur, Paris, 2004.
  • Labourdette, Jean Henri, Un siècle de carrosserie française, Edita, 1972
  • Loyer, François (dir.), Autour de l'Opéra. Naissance de la ville moderne, Action artistique de la Ville de Paris, 1995
  • Rauch, André, Vacances en France de 1830 à nos jours, Hachette Littérature, 2001
  • Rolland, Jean-Philippe, Kieffer-Rolland, Marie, Restauration des malles de voyage, Eyrolles, 2008
  • Savary de Brûlons, Jérôme, Dictionnaire universel du commerce, Editions Jacques Estienne, 1723–1730
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