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IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships

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The IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships are the biennial world championships for competition climbing for people with disabilities organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). This event determines the male and female world champions in various categories.

The first event was organized in Arco in 2011, held together with the IFSC Climbing World Championships.

Championships

Edition Year Location Date(s) Disciplines Athletes Nations Website Notes
number lead speed
1 2011 Italy Arco 18–19 July 2 • • [1]
2 2012 France Paris 12–16 September 1 • [2][3]
3 2014 Spain Gijón 11–14 September 1 • [1] [4][5]
4 2016 France Paris 14–18 September 1 • [2] [6][7][8]
5 2018 Austria Innsbruck 10–16 September 1 • [3] [9][10]
6 2019 France Briançon[11] 16–17 July 1 • [12]
7 2021 Russia Moscow[13] ?

Classifications and Categories

The classifications and categories of the competition changed over the years. Below is the latest version, quoted from the IFSC 2018 rules.

IFSC Classifications and Categories[14]
Classification Category Impairment Body part Level of Impairment
Visual B1 Visual Both Eyes Blind competitors
B2 Competitors having a visual acuity of up to 2/60 and/or a visual field of less than 5%
B3 Competitors having a visual acuity between 2/60 and 6/60 and/or a visual field between 5% and 20%.
Amputee AL-1 (seating) Loss of Limb or Limb deficiency 2 legs Full (No hip, no Joint) or combination of any
AL-2 1 Leg Full, Leg hip joint, Tibia
AU-1 (Arm amputee) 2 or 1 arm - 2 arms: Full or combination of any

- 1 arm: Full (No shoulder, no joint) or amputated of shoulder joint

AU-2 (Forearm amputee) 1 arm - No forearm

- No Hand (Wrist joint existing)

- All fingers (included thumb and no finger joint)

Limited range, power or stability: LRP

(former Neuro and Physiological Disabilities)

RP1 Hypertonia All Permanent spasticity through flexion or extension
Impaired Muscle power All - Spasticity or severe athetosistic movement from 4 limbs

- Moderate to severe trouble of tonus in 4 limbs

Ataxia All Very weak strength and / or severe control problem of upper or torso limbs
RP2 Impaired passive range of movement -Shoulder,

-Junction between shoulder and elbow,

-Torso (Trunk)

Any
Hypertonia All Considerably increase of muscular tonus
Impaired Muscle power All - Trouble of tonus on 2 to 4 limbs

- Moderate to severe trouble of tonus in 2 lower limbs

- Severe troubles of lower limbs creating walking difficulties

Athetosis All - Limited strength and / or moderate control problem of upper or torso limbs

- Correct functional value and negligible control problem of upper or torso limbs

RP3 Impaired passive range of movement -Elbow,

-Junction between Elbow and Wrist

-Wrist

-Waist

-Junction between Waist and Knee

-Knee Junction between Knee and ankle

Any
Hypertonia All Moderate increase but easily noticeable

A large number of RP conditions are neurological disabilities such as MS, stroke survivors, brain damage and so on. There are a number of competitors who climb similarly to an AL/AU athlete due to a condition/accident that has affected the development or use of a limb, placing them in the RP category instead.

When a category has no competitors entered into it, it doesn't run; but when a category has a few competitors (just not enough to officially run) this category gets merged into what is deemed to be a tougher category.[15]

Men's Results

Speed

Year Category Gold Silver Bronze
2011[16] Amputee Arm PD Russia Mikhail Saparov - -
Amputee Both Leg PD China Boyu Xia - -
Amputee Leg PD Spain Urko Carmona Barandiaran Germany Günther Grausam Italy Oliviero Bellinzani
Arthritis+Neurological PD Hungary András Szijártó Italy Matteo Alberghini France Philippe Ribière
Complete Neurological Leg Disability PD Germany Sebastian Richter - -
Visual Impairment B1 Italy Matteo Stefani Spain Manuel Cepero Gutierrez Russia Roman Kostyakov
Visual Impairment B2 Italy Simone Salvagnin Italy Oliviero Bellinzani -
Visual Impairment B3 Spain Domingo Carretero Campon Spain Ricardo Pérez Amado -

Lead

Year Category Gold Silver Bronze
2011[17] Amputee Arm PD Russia Mikhail Saparov - -
Amputee Both Leg PD China Boyu Xia - -
Amputee Leg PD Japan Mineo Ono Spain Urko Carmona Barandiaran Germany Alexander Biermann
Arthritis+Neurological PD Hungary András Szijártó Italy Matteo Masento Italy Alessio Cornamusini
Complete Neurological Leg Disability PD Germany Sebastian Richter - -
Visual Impairment B1 Italy Matteo Stefani Spain Manuel Cepero Gutierrez Russia Roman Kostyakov
Visual Impairment B2 Japan Koichiro Kobayashi Japan Masayoshi Idomoto Italy Simone Salvagnin
Visual Impairment B3 Spain Ricardo Pérez Amado Spain Domingo Carretero Campon -
2012 Amputee Leg PD Spain Urko Carmona Barandiaran Japan Mineo Ono United States Craig Demartino
Arthritis+Neurological PD1 India Manikandan Kumar Brazil Raphael Nishimura France Mathieu Besnard
Visual Impairment B1 France Nicolas Moineau Japan Kenji Iwamoto Italy Matteo Stefani
Visual Impairment B2 Japan Sho Aita Japan Koichiro Kobayashi Italy Simone Salvagnin
2014 Amputee Leg PD Spain Urko Carmona Barandiaran United States Ronald Dickson United States Craig Demartino
Visual Impairment B1 Japan Koichiro Kobayashi France Nicolas Moineau Italy Matteo Stefani
Neurological Physical Disability A France Mathieu Besnard India Manikandan Kumar Iran Behnam Khalaji
Neurological Physical Disability B Hungary András Szijártó Italy Alessio Cornamusini France Serge Laurencin
2016 B1 Japan Koichiro Kobayashi France Nicolas Moineau Italy Matteo Stefani
B2 Japan Sho Aita France Mathieu Barbe Italy Simone Salvagnin
AL-2 Spain Albert Guardia Ferrer France Julien Gasc Spain Iván Germán Pascual
RP1 Germany Korbinian Franck Germany Nils Helsper United States Connor King
RP2 Israel Nive Porat Italy Alessio Cornamusini Russia Vladimir Netsvetaev-Dolgalev
RP3 France Romain Pagnoux France Mathieu Besnard Slovenia Gregor Selak
2018 AU-2 United Kingdom Matthew Phillips United States Trevor Smith Russia Maksim Maiorov
B1 Japan Koichiro Kobayashi Italy Matteo Stefani Spain Francisco Javier Aguilar Amoedo
B2 United States Justin Salas Spain Raul Simon Franco Japan Fumiya Hamanoue
AL-2 France Thierry Delarue Spain Urko Carmona Barandiaran Spain Albert Guardia Ferrer
RP1 Italy Alessio Cornamusini Germany Korbinian Franck Germany Nils Helsper
RP2 Iran Behnam Khalaji Israel Nive Porat India Manikandan Kumar
RP3 France Romain Pagnoux United Kingdom Michael Cleverdon Slovenia Gregor Selak
2019 AU-2 United Kingdom Matthew Phillips Israel Mor Michael Sapir Germany Kevin Bartke
B1 Japan Koichiro Kobayashi Spain Francisco Javier Aguilar Amoedo Russia Daniil Lisichenko
B2 Japan Sho Aita United States Justin Salas United Kingdom Richard Slocock
B3 Romania Cosmin Florin Candoi United Kingdom Lux Losey Sail Japan Motohiro Ejiri
AL-2 France Thierry Delarue Spain Urko Carmona Barandiaran Spain Albert Guardia Ferrer
RP1 France Bastien Thomas Italy Alessio Cornamusini Germany Korbinian Franck
RP2 Iran Behnam Khalaji United States Benjamin Mayforth India Manikandan Kumar
RP3 France Romain Pagnoux France Mathieu Besnard Slovenia Gregor Selak

Women's Results

Speed

Year Category Gold Silver Bronze
2011[16] Amputee Arm PD Spain Paula De la Calle Pizarro - -
Arthritis+Neurological PD Ukraine Valentyna Kurshakova - -
Visual Impairment B1 Italy Silvia Parente Russia Dilyara Rakhmankulova -
Visual Impairment B2 Russia Tatiana Panova - -

Lead

Year Category Gold Silver Bronze
2011[17] Amputee Arm PD Spain Paula De la Calle Pizarro - -
Arthritis+Neurological PD Ukraine Valentyna Kurshakova - -
Visual Impairment B1 Russia Dilyara Rakhmankulova Italy Silvia Parente -
Visual Impairment B2 Russia Tatiana Panova - -
2012 Visual Impairment Russia Dilyara Rakhmankulova Italy Silvia Parente Italy Giulia Poggioli
Physical Disability United Kingdom Frances Brown Italy Silvia Giacobbo Dal Prà Ukraine Valentyna Kurshakova
2014 Amputee Leg PD United States Christa Brelsford Canada Kate Sawford United Kingdom Esme Harte
Visual Impairment B2 Italy Alessia Refolo Slovenia Tanja Glusic Italy Giulia Poggioli
Neurological Physical Disability A Belgium Elodie Orbaen Italy Tiziana Paolini France Oriane Moreno
2016 AU-2 United States Maureen Beck Hungary Melinda Vigh Italy Lucia Capovilla
AL-2 France Lucie Jarrige Canada Kate Sawford United Kingdom Esme Harte
RP3 Belgium Elodie Orbaen France Oriane Moreno Japan Aika Yoshida
2018 AU-2 France Solenne Piret Hungary Melinda Vigh United States Maureen Beck
B2 United Kingdom Abigail Robinson United States Whiteny Pesek Slovenia Tanja Glusic
AL-2 France Lucie Jarrige Canada Kate Sawford United States Emily Stephenson
RP2 United Kingdom Hannah Baldwin France Marlene Prat United Kingdom Anita Aggarwal
RP3 Japan Aika Yoshida Japan Momoko Yoshida Belgium Elodie Orbaen
2019 AU-2 France Solenne Piret United States Maureen Beck Hungary Melinda Vigh
B2 United Kingdom Abigail Robinson Japan Yumi Ejiri Austria Edith Scheinecker
AL-2 France Lucie Jarrige United Kingdom Joanna Newton Germany Jaqueline Fritz
RP2 United Kingdom Hannah Baldwin United Kingdom Anita Aggarwal United Kingdom Leanora Volpe
RP3 Japan Aika Yoshida Japan Momoko Yoshida United Kingdom Martha Evans

References

  1. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships – Arco (ITA) 2011". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  2. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship – Paris (FRA) 2012". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  3. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2012 – Overall rankings" (PDF). EGroupware@ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  4. ^ http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/world-championships
  5. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2014 – Combined rankings". IFSC. Archived from the original on 18 September 2018. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  6. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2016". IFSC. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  7. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2016 – Overall rankings" (PDF). IFSC. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  8. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2016 – Overall rankings" (PDF). EGroupware@ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  9. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2018". IFSC. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  10. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2018 – Combined results". IFSC. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  11. ^ "IFSC announce Paraclimbing World Championships 2019 will take place in Briançon, France". www.thebmc.co.uk. Retrieved 2019-06-29.
  12. ^ "IFSC PARACLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS - BRIANÇON (FRA) 2019".
  13. ^ "IFSC Plenary Assembly 2019 – A full recap". IFSC. 16 March 2019. Retrieved 17 May 2019.
  14. ^ "IFSC Rules 2018" (PDF).
  15. ^ "Paraclimbing Categories: Explained | Team GB Paraclimber". Abbie Robinson. 2018-12-07. Retrieved 2019-06-29.
  16. ^ a b "The 1st IFSC PARACLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS - ARCO (ITA) - July 18-19, 2011 - SPEED" (PDF).
  17. ^ a b "The 1st IFSC PARACLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS - ARCO (ITA) - July 18-19, 2011 - LEAD" (PDF).
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