Givenchy
 |
| Givenchy | |
| Company type | Subsidiary of LVMH |
|---|---|
| Industry | Fashion |
| Founded | 1952 |
| Founder | Hubert de Givenchy |
| Headquarters | , |
Key people | Sebastian Suhl[1] Anita Patel, former CEO Riccardo Tisci, Creative Director |
| Products | Clothing, accessories, perfumes and cosmetics |
| Revenue |  € 917.7 million (2012) |
| Parent | LVMH |
| Website | givenchy.com |
Givenchy (French pronunciation: [ʒivɑ̃ʃi]) is a luxury French brand of clothing, accessories, perfumes and cosmetics with Parfums Givenchy.
The house of Givenchy was founded in 1952 by designer Hubert de Givenchy and is a member of Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture et du Pret-a-Porter. It is owned by luxury goods behemoth LVMH and in 1993 achieved a total sales worth of $176 million, making it the second largest apparel division of LVMH after Dior.
History
House of Givenchy: the beginning
During his reign as the designer of the label bearing his name, Hubert de Givenchy was known for his modern, ladylike styles, which earned him many loyal clients.
In 1952, he founded his own luxury fashion house and launched a new collection « Les Séparables » with some floaty skirts and puffy blouses made from raw coton.[2]
Givenchy achieved critical acclaim with Vogue magazine praising his « wonderful first collection »14. The collection’s iconic piece was the « Bettina Blouse » a white shirt named in honour of Bettina Graziani, which was then immortablized by one of Gruau’s paintings.
The New York Times magazine published an article entitled « A star is born » and l’Album du Figaro also wrote a feature stating that « In one night, Hubert de Givenchy became one of fashion’s most famous children with his first collection» .
Famous models such as- Suzy Parker, Ivy Nicholson, Dorian Leigh became muses of the house.
In terms of innovation, he used ‘shirting’, a raw coton similar to pattern paper, to create his chic and casual collections.[3]
In 1954, Hubert de Givenchy presented the first dress-shirt (which later evolved in to a dress-bag in 1957). He was the first high fashion designer to create a luxury ready-to-wear clothing line, called « Givenchy Université », which was produced in Paris using machinery imported from the United States.[4] Before he was able to sign for this new collection, Hubert de Givenchy bought all the shares of his fashion house back from Louis Fontaine.
The Fifties : the relationship between Cristóbal Balenciaga and Hubert de Givenchy
In 1956, both Balenciaga and Givenchy presented their collection in New York during a charity gala in aid of the American hospital in Paris.[5]
In 1957, the House of Givenchy introduced the dress-bag for the first time. In 1958, Hubert de Givenchy launched the ‘Baby Dol’ line, along with the coats line ‘Ballon’.
In 1959, the Givenchy studio moved to number 3, Avenue George V in Paris, opposite Balanciaga’s.. The same year, Givenchy and Balenciaga announced that their respective collections would be shown to the press one month after their presentation to the buyers, in order to avoid any dictation.
The Seventies: a rapidly expanding luxury fashion house
In 1969, Hubert de Givenchy launched his fashion line for men « Gentleman Givenchy ». The boutique was opened in November on Avenue George V.[5] In line with the philosophy of the time, in which the new generation yearned for more freedom, Hubert de Givenchy later introduced dress-shorts.
On the advice of Cristóbal Balenciaga, Givenchy developed his licences in the seventies, in order to protect the high standards at the heart of the fashion house: the Haute Couture collections.[6] In 1971, he designed a collection of embroidered coats in honour of Georges Braque and Joan Miró.
During this period, the House of Givenchy diversified its activities to create shoes, jewellery, ties, table wear, upholstery and kimonos. Passionate about decoration and interior design, Hubert de Givenchy was chosen to design the interior of Hilton hotels around the world, and even a car (the Ford Mark).[7]
In 1976, Givenchy Inc. (offices and showrooms) arrived on New York’s fifth avenue.
Womenswear, 1995–present
John Galliano succeeded Givenchy upon his retirement but was in turn promoted to Christian Dior less than two years later, prompting the hiring of Alexander McQueen. In 2001, designer Julien Macdonald was appointed Artistic Director for the women's lines, which consist of haute couture and ready-to-wear.
The reins for both collections were passed on to Riccardo Tisci in 2005 when he was named chief designer of womenswear. Tisci's apparent fascination with gothic touches (dark, languid dresses on sickly-looking models for fall couture) and space-age minimalism (one ready-to-wear show featured white-clad models drifting aimlessly around a sterile-white sphere) have drawn new attention to the brand. Reviews and output so far have been mixed and inconsistent, but many, including influential fashion critics (such as Cathy Horyn of the New York Times and Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune) have homed in on Tisci's conceptual leanings, as well as his future potential for revitalizing the Givenchy brand and infusing it with his precision and imagination.
Sebastian Suhl, the former chief operating officer of Prada S.p.A., is the current chief operating officer at Givenchy.[1][8]
Givenchy designs have been worn by a number of celebrities on red carpet occasions, including Rooney Mara at the 2012 Academy awards. Also responsible for working with Madonna designing her costumes for her Sticky & Sweet tour as well as the 2012 Super Bowl Halftime Show.[9]
The eighties and the nineties : The LVMH era
The sparkling period of the brand and the distinctions of the creator
Later, Hubert de Givenchy was elected the personality of the year 1979 and the most elegant man of the year by The Best.[10]
In 1982, a big retrospective presided by Audrey Hepburn was organized by the Fashion Institute of Technology of New York to celebrate the thirty years of the high fashion house creation.[11]
Next year Hubert de Givenchy is named « chevalier de la Légion d’Honneur » and in 1985, Jacques Lang, the French minister of the Culture, gave him the Oscar dedicated to the art of elegance during a celebration at the Opera in Paris.[12]
The departure of Hubert de Givenchy
In 1988, Givenchy joined LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton.[13]
Few years later, in 1991, a big retrospective celebrated at the Galliera Palace the forty years of the high fashion house creation. Hubert de Givenchy left the company in 1995. He will be succeeded by some british young creators such as: John Galliano Alexander McQueen and Julien MacDonald. From December 2003 to 2006, the british cutter Ozwald Boateng is named as the artistic director of the Givenchy men.
Givenchy, the icons and the cinema
Audrey Hepburn
The most famous ambassador of the brand was Audrey Hepburn in films such as Sabrina, for which Edith Head claimed the Academy Award, How to Steal a Million and Breakfast at Tiffany's. In 1957 Givenchy created a floral aldehyde fragrance, L`Interdit, for Miss Hepburn’s sole use. His other famous patrons include Empress Farah Pahlavi and Marella Agnelli, as well as the Guinness, Grimaldi and Kennedy families, who famously wore Givenchy clothes to the funeral of John F. Kennedy. Hubert de Givenchy retired in 1995.
Celebrities
Givenchy attracted many celebrities, including the likes of Lauren Bacall, Babe Paley, Greta Garbo, Elizabeth Taylor, Marlène Dietrich, Jacqueline Kennedy-Onassis,[14] Princess Grace of Monaco[15] and even Wallis Simpson, for whom he created some special covers, preserving the duchess’ orders from the curiosity of clients. They would later become known as ‘blue Wallis’.[16]
Cinema
In 1958, director Elia Kazan photograped David Niven ; Jean Seberg and Deborah Kerr in Givenchy on the shooting of ‘Bonjour Tristesse’. Elizabeth Taylor was dressed in Givenchy in ‘The VIP’S’[17] as well as Capucine in ‘lThe Pink Panther’ by Blake Edwards .
Menswear
Givenchy menswear was relaunched for Spring 2005 with Savile Row tailor and fashion designer Ozwald Boateng at the helm. Ozwald Boateng introduced a definitive silhouette and style to the French brand through his remarkable understanding of cut and fabrics. For Spring 2009, the task fell upon womenswear designer Riccardo Tisci, who brought the sleek, darker themes prevalent in his women's collections to the traditionally more conservative menswear division. Tisci has brought great urban success to the line by working with rapper and designer, Kanye West.
Givenchy and the perfumes
With the advices and the help of Cristóbal Balenciaga, Hubert de Givenchy chose to found the enterprise named with his real name. The perfumes will be based in the Balanciaga perfumes office before its installation at Levallois.
In 1958, Hubert de Givenchy had the idea to ask the participation of Audrey Hepburn for the promotion of its first and new perfume, L’Interdit. She offered her face for the perfume ad dedicated to her. It was the first time that a star gave her face for a perfume ad for the symbol of her friendship with Givenchy. The Anglo-Saxon clientele of the fashion designer became even more importante. The first advertising campaign is accompanied with a slogan « From now, only one woman in the world was authorized to wear a perfume, L'Interdit, created by Givenchy for Audrey Hepburn.»[18]
Mister Givenchy et Vetiver were launched in 1959, followed by the launch of the woman perfume « Givenchy III » with the slogan « Who know why one remind a woman and not another one ? Givenchy III gives memories to men ».[19] The success of the Givenchy perfumes obliged the construction of a factory in Beauvais.[20]
Hubert de Givenchy created for the occasion the symbol « 4 G » and a cosmetic line launched in the United Stated.
Operations
The company's operations are divided between: "Europe accounts for 42 percent of the business, China 18 percent, Asia-Pacific 14 percent, America 12 percent, the Middle East 7 percent, Japan 4 percent, and the rest of the world 3 percent."[1]
Ad campaigns
The Fall 2010 collection from Givenchy and Riccardo Tisci reportedly featured a transsexual model[21] for the first time. Lea T, a Brazilian formerly known as Leo Cerezo, was the designer's personal assistant for a number of years. About the decision, Tisci said, "She’s always been very feminine: superfragile, very aristocratic. She’s part of the family."
References
- ^ a b c Socha, Miles (7 November 2013). "Givenchy Looks to Capitalize on Momentum". WWD. Retrieved 7 November 2013.
- ^ Template:FrGivenchy Elle.fr
- ^ All about Givenchy Essortment.com
- ^ Key fashion moments Stylesequel.com
- ^ a b Givenchy Voguepedia
- ^ Template:FrGivenchy, le couturier des stars Bloc.com, Dominique A.C., le 18 décembre 2007
- ^ The Vogue list: Givenchy Vogue.fr
- ^ Gay, Sara (12 June 2009). "Prada Says It Isn't in Talks to Sell Stake Amid Buyout Interest". Bloomberg. Retrieved 1 January 2012.
- ^ "BBC News – Oscars 2012: Stars arrive". BBC. 27 February 2012. Retrieved 26 April 2012.
- ^ Template:FrHubert de Givenchy, entre vies et légendesJean-Noël Liaut, Grasset
- ^ Thirty years of Givenchy will be displayed Palm Beach Daily News, 8 mai 1982
- ^ Template:FrHubert de Givenchy, entre vies et légendesJean-Noël Liaut, Grasset
- ^ Template:FrGivenchy : histoire Pure Trends
- ^ Template:FrGivenchy: biography Style Sequel
- ^ Template:FrGivenchy Elle
- ^ Template:Frla duchesse de Windsor: pourquoi elle reste une légende Gala
- ^ The VIP's Turner Classic Movies
- ^ Template:Fr1957 : L'interdit de Givenchy Le Figaro, 16 août 2012
- ^ Template:FrStructure syntaxique des textes publicitaires Nicole Bachala, Alain Bentolila, Vera Carvalho, Université René-Descartes, Paris. Persée, revues scientifiques
- ^ Template:FrGivenchy, le luxe made in OiseLe Parisien, 28 janvier 2011
- ^ 7 May 2010 (7 May 2010). "Tisci's Trans Europe Express... Fashionair Paused". Wwd.com. Retrieved 26 April 2012.
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External links
