Pisco

A promotional picture of pisco produced in Peru.

Some bottles of Chilean pisco.

File:Pisco ruta norte 35.jpg

Botella pisco Especial.

Pisco (from Quechua: pisqu, little bird, or named after a type of clay pot, or after a port in Peru) is a strong, colorless grape brandy that comes from Ica Region in Peru. Chile produces Chilean Pisco which is yellowish-to-amber colored brandy.

Pisco was developed by Spanish settlers in the 16th century as an alternative to orujo, a pomace brandy that was being imported from Spain. Pisco takes its name from town of Pisco, located on the coast of Peru. The first vineyards were planted in the coastal valleys in the Viceroyalty of Peru, when vine plants arrived from the Canary Islands. Even though Spain imposed many restrictions on wine production and commerce, the wine-making industry developed rapidly, such as in the corregimientos of Ica.

Etymology

Pisco may have received its name from the town of Pisco, located on the coast of Peru. The origins of the word pisco can be traced to the Quechua language where the birds that inhabited the valleys of the Ica region were called pisqu (or any of: pisco, pisku, phishgo, pichiu, pisccu depending on the orthography). The origin of the city of Pisco is said to be from pre-Incan times when the area was ruled by people known as the Piskus. The importance of the city increased under Spanish rule due to its proximity to the coast and its exportation of aguardiente from Ica, and in time the name of the city became used as the name for the spirit.

History

Zones of pisco production as established by Peruvian and Chilean law in red. In green singani production areas as established by Bolivian law.

In the late 1550s, the Spanish began to plant and harvest export quality grapes selected to produce wine with, while those that did not measure up were discarded or given to the farmers to do with as they pleased. It is in this context that small groups began to use these grapes to distill a brandy-like liquor from the discarded grapes, using similar techniques to those used in Spain for the production of Orujo.

The black grape taken to the Viceroyalty of Peru by the Spanish suffered due to its adaptation to soil and weather conditions, eventually stabilizing in a new variety named "Quebranta", purportedly named because the original grape was "broken" (Spanish quebrar), or tamed, for its new environment. Almost all early pisco was believed to be produced from this variety of grape. Others used any grape available at the time, however, only the largest vineyards (and those with dedicated pisco distilleries) were able to produce exportable volume. This claim however cannot be verified, it is logical to assume that all available grapes grown in the Iberian peninsula were brought to the new world.

In 1613, a will of a resident of the of Ica —a town called Pisco in Viceroyalty of Peru, close to the Nazca lines - named by Pedro Manuel the Greek. In it he itemizes his worldly goods, including 30 containers of grape brandy, one barrel of the same spirit, a large copper pot and all of the utensils needed to produce pisco. This is the first documentation of a historic alcoholic drink in post-Columbian Peru.

In 1641, wine imports from the Viceroyalty of Peru into Spain were banned in order to eliminate competition for any locally produced grape products, severely damaging the wine production in the colony that could be exported outside of the Americas. Local production of both wine and pisco continued for local consumption and export to other colonies.

The drink began to acquire consumers in the sailors that transported products between the colonies and Spain as well as sailors of other nationalities, who began to call it pisco, naming it after the port where it was thought to originate from. The drink then became a favorite of sailors and workers who visited the port of Pisco as well as other Peruvian ports. It was exalted for its strong taste and ability to quickly affect the consumer. As trade from Peru to the world grew, so did the popularity of pisco, until it almost equaled wine in quantity as an export.

During the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, pisco was a mainstay on ocean-crossing vessels, drunk mostly by sailors, as officers usually drank whisky or other "finer" spirits. The main reasons for its heyday were the low price and high availability. This position was maintained by pisco until the onset of rum, which won over consumers with lower prices and a softer flavor.

Pisco was also popular in San Francisco and nearby areas of California during the Gold Rush in the late 1800s and early 1900s.

According to legal documents recently found in the U.S. National Archives of San Francisco, California, it has been proven that at least until 1864, Pisco was considered a liquor native only to the Republic of Peru.

The proven existence of Chilean Pisco can be traced back to the first organised operations in 1871, and its original Appellation of Origin was officially reserved and approved by law in 1931. Pisco production likely originally spread to Chile after its after its occupation of southern Peru in the late 1800s.

Variants and production

Chilean pisco

Chilean "Pisco Aviador" label from 1915

Peru has tried to claim the exclusive right to the use of the Pisco label name as an appellation of origin. However, various large-market countries (e.g., the United States, France, Italy, Mexico, Canada, Australia, etc.) allow products of Chile to be identified as "Chilean Pisco".

Chilean pisco is produced in the Elqui Valley, a long narrow region through the Andes, by the ABA firm. It is produced there with a "boutique" type of distillate made by the Aguirre family. The ABA brand of Chilean pisco is produced with double distillation in copper pot type stills.

During the adaptation of many vineyards to pisco production, the most widespread grape was used as raw material, namely the Muscat, with some vineyards preferring the Torontel and Pedro Jiménez varieties. As is the case with Peru, regulations for pisco designations have been enacted in Chile, including the following classifications:

• Regular, 30% to 35% (60 to 70 proof).
• Special, 35% to 40% (70 to 80 proof).
• Control, 40% (80 proof).
• Reserve, 40% to 43% (80 to 86 proof).
• Great, 43% or more (86 or more proof).

No distinction between varietal mixes is made other than that it is restricted to the three kinds of grapes named above.

The Regular pisco variation is quite bland in taste since the alcohol is mixed with water, reminiscent of a weak rum, and its odor is very sweet and woody with a slight yellowish tinge to the color.

The Control Pisco from Chile is aged in oak and has a specific ABV of 40%.

The Special and Reserve variations are very similar in flavor and color, both being very sweet and of a cloudy yellowish color. The flavor is much stronger than regular pisco and leaves an alcoholic aftertaste in the mouth, similar to bourbon.

The Great pisco has a commanding odor and a dark yellow color, it is not as sweet as the other varieties, yet it carries strong woody flavor the others lack.

The yellowish to amber color in Chilean pisco is due to the wood aging process, with the darker colors being a sign that they have been aged longer. Not all Chilean pisco is tinged, and the more mass-marketed brands can be clear.

Ecological aspects

Chile has taken steps to have a clean and environmentally friendly production of pisco. In order to crack down on pollution, and to increase competitiveness, the National Council for Clean Production agreed with the pisco producers and pisco grape agronomists, to collaborate, signing an Agreement of Clean Production (APL). Capel, by itself invested more than US$800 million.

Peruvian pisco

Some bottles of Peruvian Pisco.

Peruvian Pisco is produced only using copper pot stills rather than continuous stills – like single malt Scotch whiskies and unlike most vodkas. Peruvian Pisco is never actually diluted after it is distilled and enters the bottle directly at its distillation strength.

Peruvian Pisco is produced from grapes grown in the traditional wine growing region of the Ica Valley, around the Pisco River and Ica Rivers, which are both about located 300 km south of Lima, the capital city of Peru.

A Peruvian Pisco peculiarity is that the first part of the distillation (called the heads) is kept, and then mixed in with the rest of the distillate. Re-adding the 'heads' adds in more 'character' to the variety of Pisco and this is the way that the Peruvians traditionally liked it.

Many types of grapes were used to produce pisco, leading to a wide variation in flavor, aroma, viscosity and appearance of the liquor. This harmed attempts to export the product under a single denomination since there could be enormous differences between the contents of bottles sold as pisco. As such, a number of regulations were established and set a baseline for a product to carry the name.

Four levels of pisco were thus designated:

• Puro (Pure), made from a single variety of grape, mostly Quebranta, although Mollar or Common Black can be used; however, no blending between varieties is accepted ("pure" pisco should contain only one variety of grape).
• Aromáticas (Aromatic), made from Muscat or Muscat-derived grape varieties, and also from Albilla, Italia and Torontel grape varieties; once again, the pisco should only contain one variety of grape in any production lot.
• Mosto Verde (Green Must), distilled from partially fermented must, this must be distilled before the fermentation process has completely transformed sugars into alcohol.
• Acholado (Half-breed), blended from the must of several varieties of grape.

The order is not established based on quality; it is simply listed in this way in Peruvian regulation publications.

Some other specific restrictions of note are:

• Aging: Pisco must be aged for a minimum of three months in vessels of "glass, stainless steel or any other material which does not alter its physical, chemical or organic properties".
• Additives: No additives of any kind may be added to the pisco that could alter its flavor, odor, appearance or alcoholic proof.

Pure pisco is a very viscous liquid, slightly more so than vodka and comparable to Sambuca. It has an odor which is vaguely reminiscent of reeds. Its flavor is very smooth and almost non-alcoholic, which can be very deceptive, with the result that many first-time drinkers often drink to excess and can quickly become inebriated without noticing. Some people consider it "heresy" to mix pure pisco with anything else, and it is generally accepted that it should be drunk alone, even to the exclusion of ice.

Aromatic is a variety currently made of Italy and Muscat grapes in Peru and frequently rests in big clay receptacles called botijas. According to Peruvian specifications, Chilean Pisco cannot be classified as aromatic despite the restriction of 'no additives' is obeyed, because Chilean Pisco is aged in oak barrels and it is frequently made of a mix of more than four types of grapes that remain after the wine elaboration which is the main purpose of the Chilean spirits industry.

Green Must is generally seen in high income environments. Its grape taste is very strong, as is its fruity perfume.

In Peru, "Pisco Sour day" is celebrated on the first Saturday of February. Years ending with zero (0) are of special significance. The theme is red and white (the Peruvian flag colours). When the Peruvian National Anthem is played, all Pisco Sour's must be finished as a mark of respect.

Acholado is gaining popularity due to its sweetness, both in odor and flavor, making it a favorite for the Pisco sour, a mixed drink.

Ecological aspects

Water pollution from mining threatens grape harvests. The water intended for irrigating and cultivating the vineyards is loaded with mining residue and chemicals. Water purification is necessary for the survival of the vineyards. Air pollution must be dealt with immediately because of the threat to the health and safety of local residents and workers. The dry air of the Ica region is immobile because of the sea and the Andes mountain range. Eliminating river pollution as a result of mining is imperative. "Because of the dry arid climate, chemicals are absorbed into the local atmosphere and remain in the area".

Comparison

The differences between the Peruvian and the Chilean liquor are (but not limited to):

	PERU	CHILE
Definition	Liquor obtained exclusively from the distillation of recently fermented "grapes", using methods which maintain the traditional principles of quality established in recognized production areas.	...is reserved to liquor produced and bottled, in consumable quantities, in Regions III and IV, elaborated by the distillation of genuine wine, originating from specified varietals, grown in said regions.
Grapes	Non Aromatic: Quebranta, Common Black, Mollar, Uvina Aromatic: Italia, Muscat, Albilla, Torontel.	Yellow Muscat, White Early Muscat, Alexandria Muscat, Austrian Muscat, Frontignan Muscat, Hamburg Muscat, Black Muscat, Pink Muscat, Canelli Muscat, Orange Muscat, Pedro Jiménez, Torontel.
Production	The fermentation process can be done with partial or total maceration of the grape, strictly controlling the temperature and decomposition of sugars.	The grape juice is fermented into wine containing 14% alcohol (28 proof).
	The fermented product is distilled in copper or stainless steel vessels to the desired alcoholic proof. No product may be added to alter the alcoholic proof, odor, flavor or color of the liquid.	The fermented product is distilled in copper vessels until an alcoholic proof of 55° to 60° is reached. Rectifiers must be added if the alcoholic proof is less than that specified.
	The pisco must be aged a minimum of three months in glass, stainless steel or other materials which do not alter the physical, chemical or organic properties before bottling.	The crude liquor is aged in wood for a short time, usually not more than a few months. Higher quality brands may be aged in oak barrels for a longer time.
	The pisco must be bottled directly after aging, without alteration or adding any product which could alter the odor, flavor or appearance.	The liquor from different distilleries is mixed, diluted with demineralized water in order to lower the alcoholic proof to the desired level, filtered and bottled.
Alcohol Content	38% to 48% (76° to 96° proof)	30% to 50% (60° to 100° proof)
Designated Pisco Areas	Departments of Lima, Ica (Ica, Chincha, Pisco), Arequipa, Moquegua and the Locumba, Sama and Caplina valleys in the Department of Tacna.	Atacama, Coquimbo.

Cocktails

Some of the most popular cocktails with pisco include:

• Pisco Punch, the first known pisco cocktail in the world, invented in San Francisco, California in the XIX Century. It contained pineapple gum Arabic syrup among other ingredients.
• Pisco Sour, "national cocktail" in Chile and Peru. Prepared with egg white, lime juice, simple syrup, and bitters.
• Serena Libre, similar to Pisco Sour, but made with Chilean Papaya juice and sugar.
• Algarrobina, Peruvian Pisco with Algarrobina syrup, cinnamon, egg yolk, and cream. (Carob syrup can be substituted for algarrobina syrup, but the taste is slightly different)

Mixed drinks

Some examples of mixed drinks with pisco include:

• Canario
• Capitán
• Chilcano de Pisco, a Peruvian cocktail made with Pisco, lemon juice, and ginger ale.
• Piscola, also called "national cocktail" in Chile (Spanish: Combinado nacional or [combinado] Error: {{Lang}}: text has italic markup (help)) a cocktail prepared mixing Coca-Cola and pisco.
• Tiger tail: a variant from Piscola. First serve the Coca-Cola, then place a fabric napkin on the top of the glass and serve slowly the pisco through it.
• Pisco Collins
• Perú Libre, a cocktail prepared by mixing pisco with coke. Also known as "Sol y Sombra" (Sun and Shadow).
• Pisco Sorpresa, a cocktail originated in East London, inspired by the Latin American classic. Involves shaking Gin, Cointreau, Triple Sec, Bacardi and Pisco, adding raspberry juice, pouring in to a cocktail glass and finishing off with a dash of soda, grenadine and a squeeze of lemon.

Consumption

In Chile the per capita consumption of pisco is of 3 litres per year of which 18% is on average so-called premium piscos. However, in Peru, the annual per capita consumption was reported as being only 0.5 litres as of 2008, but growing – at the expense of decreasing market shares for rum and whisky (although whisky remains the most popular spirit in Peru).

See also

• List of piscos
• Singani
• Cocoroco

External links

• Pisco information, Peru
• Pisco: A Peruvian Tradition of Excellence, Peruvian Business Association of Vancouver