Mount Robson

Mount Robson
Mount Robson, August 2005
Highest point
Elevation	3,954 m (12,972 ft)
Prominence	2,829 m (9,281 ft)
Listing	Ultra
Geography
Parent range	Rainbow Range (Canadian Rockies)
Topo map	NTS 83E/03
Climbing
First ascent	July 31, 1913 by Julien Vallières, William W. Foster, Albert H. McCarthy and Conrad Kain
Easiest route	South face (UIAA IV)

Mount Robson is the most prominent mountain in North America's Rocky Mountain range; it is also the highest point in the Canadian Rockies. The mountain is located entirely within Mount Robson Provincial Park of British Columbia, and is part of the Rainbow Range. It is commonly thought to be the highest point in B.C., but that distinction is held by Mount Fairweather at 4,663 m (15,299 ft). Mount Robson is the second highest peak entirely in British Columbia, behind Mount Waddington.

Mount Robson was likely named after Colin Robertson, who worked for both the North West Company and the Hudson’s Bay Company at various times in the early 19th century. The Texqakallt, a Secwepemc people and the earliest inhabitants of the area, call it Yuh-hai-has-kun, The Mountain of the Spiral Road. Other unofficial names include Cloud Cap Mountain and Snow Cap Mountain.

Geography

Mount Robson boasts great vertical relief over the local terrain. From Berg Lake the mountain rises 2,300 m (7,546 ft) to the summit. The north face of Mount Robson is heavily glaciated and 800 m (2,600 ft) of ice plunge from the summit to Berg Glacier. The south side of the mountain rises 3,000 m (9,843 ft) from base-to-summit. The 1,500 m (4,921 ft) Emperor Face on the northwest side provides a formidable challenge to climbers attempting a route up this vertical wall of rock and ice; people have died trying to climb the mountain.

The south face of Mount Robson is clearly visible from the Yellowhead Highway (Highway 16). The north face can be seen from Berg Lake, reached by a 19 km (11.8 mi) hike. The lake is approximately two km long. There are backcountry campgrounds at each end of the lake. One of Mount Robson's glaciers calves into Berg lake.

Climbing routes

Mount Robson has a high failure rate on climbing to the top, with only about 10% of attempts being successful. Although the mountain is under 4,000 m (13,123 ft), there is no easy way to the summit and bad weather commonly rebuffs most summit attempts.

The main climbing routes on Mount Robson include:

• South Face (Normal Route) IV
• Kain Face IV (named after Conrad Kain)
• Wishbone Arete IV 5.6
• Emperor Ridge V 5.6
• Emperor Face, Stump/Logan VI 5.9 A2
• Emperor Face, Cheesmond/Dick VI 5.9 A2
• Emperor Face, Infinite Patience VI WI5 M5 5.9
• Emperor Face, House-Haley M7
• North Face IV
• Fuhrer Ridge IV 5.4

See also

• Mountain peaks of Canada
• Mountain peaks of North America
• Mountain peaks of the Rocky Mountains
• Rocky Mountains
• List of Ultras of Canada

References

• "Mount Robson Provincial Park, Draft Background Report" (PDF). BC Parks. 2006-09. Retrieved 2007-06-05. {{cite web}}: Check date values in: |date= (help)
• "Mount Robson Provincial Park". BC Parks. Retrieved 2008-02-12.
• "Mount Robson". Bivouac.com. Retrieved 2007-04-20.

External links

• Mount Robson on Peakware - unofficial summit log.
• Alpine accidents on Mt. Robson
• Mount Robson on Summitpost.org