North Twin Peak

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North Twin Peak
The Twins - South and North (l-r).jpg
The Twins - South Twin and North Twin (l-r)
Highest point
Elevation3,731 m (12,241 ft) [1]
Prominence1,011 m (3,317 ft) [2]
Coordinates52°13′30″N 117°26′00″W / 52.22500°N 117.43333°W / 52.22500; -117.43333Coordinates: 52°13′30″N 117°26′00″W / 52.22500°N 117.43333°W / 52.22500; -117.43333
North Twin Peak is located in Alberta
North Twin Peak
North Twin Peak
Alberta, Canada
Parent rangeWinston Churchill Range
Topo mapNTS 83C/03
First ascent1923 by W.S. Ladd, J. Monroe Thorington, guided by Conrad Kain
Easiest routeglacier/snowfield ski

North Twin (Peak) is one of the two peaks that comprise The Twins massif located at the northeast corner of the Columbia Icefield in Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada. The other lower peak is named South Twin (3,566 m). North Twin is the third-highest peak in the Canadian Rockies, after Mount Robson and Mount Columbia.

The massif was named The Twins in 1898 by J. Norman Collie and Hugh M. Stutfield. The decision to name the peaks separately was approved February 28, 1980.

In addition to North Twin and South Twin, the massif contains a northern subpeak of North Twin known as Twins Tower, 3,627 m (11,900 ft) (see lower photo). This sits atop the famed north face of the massif (see below), and was named in 1984.


The first ascent of North Twin was recorded on 10 July 1923 by W.S. Ladd, J.M. Thorington, and Conrad Kain, via the East Face.[3]

The normal route is a ski mountaineering climb on the eastern slopes, and it is possible to ski all the way to the summit. A traverse can be made to the South Twin, although an ice axe is recommended for the narrow connecting ridge.

Notable ascents[edit]

The nearly vertical north face drops over 1,500 m (4,921 ft) from Twins Tower to the Athabasca River - the true summit of North Twin is somewhat removed from the top of the north face. The north face is renowned in climbing circles and has been climbed by only four parties:

North Twin icefall and Twins Tower


  1. ^ Other sources give the height as 3,684 m (12,087 ft) or 3,733m (12,247 ft). See North Twin on or North Twin on
  2. ^ This prominence value is from, see the previous reference.
  3. ^ "North Twin - Alberta". - Canadian Mountain Encyclopedia. Retrieved 20 June 2009.
  4. ^ Lowe, George (1975). "The North Face of North Twin". American Alpine Journal. New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club. 20 (49): 1–8.
  5. ^ MacDonald, Dougald (9 April 2004). "North Twin Finally Climbed Again!". Climbing Magazine Hot Flashes. Archived from the original on 6 September 2008. Retrieved 20 June 2009.
  6. ^

External links[edit]