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Pisco

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For other uses, see Pisco (disambiguation).
Some bottles of Chilean Pisco
Some bottles of Peruvian Pisco

Pisco (from Quechua: pisqu, little bird) is a liquor distilled from grapes (a brandy) made in wine-producing regions of Peru and Chile. It is the most widely consumed spirit in Bolivia, Chile and Peru.[citation needed] The right to produce and promote pisco has been the matter of legal disputes between Chile and Peru, in both of which the most iconic cocktail is the pisco sour.

Origins

The first vineyards in the Viceroyalty of Peru were planted in the fertile coastal valleys of Peru shortly after the arrival of the Spanish Conquistadors. The Marquis Francisco de Caravantes was the first to import grapes, bringing them from the Canary Islands in 1553. Even though Spain imposed many restrictions on wine production and commerce, the wine-making industry developed rapidly, mainly in the Corregimiento of Ica in Peru.

In the late 1550s, the Spanish began to plant and harvest grapes for wine in the southern regions of what is now Peru. "Export quality" grapes were selected to produce wine with, while those that did not measure up were discarded or given to the farmers to do with as they pleased. It is in this context that small groups began to use these grapes to distill a brandy-like liquor from the discarded grapes, using similar techniques to those of Chicha production.

The oldest written historical record of grape brandy production in the Spanish colonies date back to Peru 1613. It is in the will of a resident of the department of Ica—a town called Pisco, close to the Nazca lines, named by Pedro Manuel the Greek. In it he itemizes his worldly goods, including 30 containers of grape brandy, one barrel of the same spirit, a large copper pot and all of the utensils needed to produce pisco.

Pisco was considered a lesser beverage by the Spanish and not consumed by them unless they were poor or curious. Pisco did not have a name for a long time, although it is reported the Spanish called it "aguardiente" (firewater).

The drink began to acquire consumers in the sailors that transported products between the colonies and Spain, who began to call it pisco, naming it after the port[1] where it could be bought. The drink then became a favorite of sailors and workers who visited the port of Pisco. It was exalted for its strong taste and ability to quickly affect the consumer. As trade from Peru to the world grew, so did the popularity of pisco, until it almost equaled wine in quantity as an export.

In 1641, wine imports from Peru into Spain were banned, severely damaging the wine industry in the colony; only a few vineyards that had parallel wine and pisco operations survived this change. Those that did began to concentrate on pisco production, nearly eliminating wine production in Peru.

During the 18th and 19th centuries, pisco was a mainstay on ocean-crossing vessels, drunk mostly by sailors, as officers usually drank whisky or other "finer" spirits. The main reasons for its heyday were the low price and high availability. This position was maintained by pisco until the onset of rum, which won over consumers with lower prices and a softer flavor.

Pisco was also briefly popular in San Francisco and nearby areas of California during the Gold Rush in the 19th century, where it was introduced by Chilean and Peruvian miners.

Etymology

Pisco received its name from the town of Pisco, located on the coast of Peru.[1] The origins of the word pisco can be traced to the Quechua language where the birds that inhabited the valleys of the Ica region were called pisqu (or any of: pisco, pisku, phishgo, pichiu, pisccu depending on the orthography).

Modern History

After the South American independence period, vineyards whose main product was pisco were located solely in what was then Peru, due to geographical and political divisions left by the Spaniards. However, during the War of the Pacific, Peru was effectively defeated and became an occupied nation, until the Treaty of Ancon in 1883 ceded the desert area of Tarapaca to Chile; this desert area was used to produce a pisco adapting the Peruvian techniques. In the occupation years, the attempts by Chile to convert the people of the occupied territories to Chilean sentiments, combined with the constant uprisings by Peruvian nationalists led to a severe disruption in pisco production in the entire Atacama region. It was not until several years later, in 1929, that definitive boundaries were established and the situation began to calm. In the newly conquered Pica and Pozo Almonte oasis of Tarapaca, the Chilean government banned the production of wine due to the high grade of "Peruvianity" (some Peruvian presidents had links with the wine production there), thereafter the oasis changed the production to fruits instead.[citation needed] This has also been interpreted as a war for the wine production in the southern hemisphere. Since then Chile's Central Valley has had the biggest wine production in the southern hemisphere.

In the years between the 1880s and the 1940s, pisco production was severely hampered in Peru due to the national reconstruction taking place and the widespread misery due to the destruction of the nation's production, military and political infrastructure; and in Chile because of the aforementioned instability in the region.

Currently, Chile markets pisco in much greater quantities than Peru producing nearly 50 times more per year.[2][3]

Peru

It is important to remark the fact that Pisco production was never stopped in Peru and there is many documents demostrating that fact. In the 1940s one of the most emblematic brands of Pisco was founded by two cousins from Italy, Pedro Raggio and Francisco Queirolo. After the death of Pedro Raggio and later his brother Vittorio Raggio, the Queirolo family took over and still today manufacture the pisco and wine product in the city of Magdalena. Many Peruvians agree that Queirolo pisco excels all other piscos. Production ramped up and Peru began to export pisco as a national product at that time, however, due to the nation's focus on raw materials exports, pisco was not given much prominence. National sentiment began to flare up in the 1960s when Chile decided to ban all imports of any product denominated "pisco" coming from Peru. From that time on, Peru has been constantly trying to enforce the denomination of "pisco" as a Peruvian-only product, beginning at first with internal rules and regulations pertaining to the harvesting of grapes, distillation and storage requirements for a product to be named "pisco", and finally establishing trademarks and other legal processes. Peru has presented an application for international registration in the WIPO (World Intellectual Property Organization), according to the Lisbon Agreement (23 countries parties). After one year from the date of receipt of the application, the protection of the appellation of origin takes effect in all member countries of the Lisbon Union that have not rejected it [1].

Varieties

Early Production

Chilean "Pisco Aviador" label from 1915

The black grape taken to Peru by the Spanish suffered due to its adaptation to soil and weather conditions in the province of Pisco, eventually stabilizing in a new variety named "Quebranta", purportedly named because the original grape was "broken" (Spanish quebrar), or tamed, for its new environment. Almost all early pisco was produced from this variety of grape. Others used any grape available at the time, however, since only the largest vineyards (and those with dedicated pisco distilleries) were able to produce exportable volume, Quebranta was the only variety exported, since it was the preferred grape for pisco production.

Peruvian Pisco

In the years following the re-establishment of pisco production, many grapes were used to produce pisco, leading to a wide variation in flavor, aroma, viscosity and appearance of the liquor. This harmed attempts to export the product under a single denomination since there could be enormous differences between the contents of bottles sold as pisco. As such, a number of regulations were established to counteract this situation and set a baseline for a product to carry the name.

Four levels of pisco were thus designated:

  • Pure, made from a single variety of grape, mostly Quebranta, although Mollar or Common Black can be used; however, no blending between varieties is accepted ("pure" pisco should contain only one variety of grape).
  • Aromatic, made from Muscat or Muscat-derived grape varieties, and also from Italia and Torontel grape varieties; once again, the pisco should only contain one variety of grape in any production lot.
  • Green Must, distilled from partially fermented must, this must be distilled before the fermentation process has completely transformed sugars into alcohol.
  • Acholado (Half-breed), blended from the must of several varieties of grape.

The order is not established on quality, it is simply listed in that way in Peruvian publications.

Some other specific restrictions of note are:

  • Aging: pisco must be aged for a minimum of three months in vessels of "glass, stainless steel or any other material which does not alter its physical, chemical or organic properties".
  • Additives: no additives of any kind may be added to the pisco that could alter its flavor, odor, appearance or alcoholic proof.

Pure pisco is a very viscous liquid, slightly more so than vodka and comparable to Sambuca. It has an odor which is vaguely reminiscent of reeds. Its flavor is very smooth and almost non-alcoholic, which can be very deceptive, with the result that many first-time drinkers often drink to excess and can quickly become inebriated without noticing. Some people consider it "heresy" to mix pure pisco with anything else, and it is generally accepted that it should be drunk alone, even to the exclusion of ice.

Aromatic is rarely seen nowadays, as its production has almost ceased in Peru, since according to Peruvian specifications, some Chilean pisco would be classified as aromatic, provided that the restriction of 'no additives' is obeyed. See the Chilean pisco section for more information.

Green Must is generally seen in high income environments. Its grape taste is very strong, as is its fruity perfume.

Acholado is gaining popularity due to its sweetness, both in odor and flavor, making it a favorite for Pisco sour, a mixed drink. The acholado variety is also preferred due to its "kick", which can be felt immediately after drinking, one can literally feel the drink making its way to the stomach.


Comparison

PERU
CHILE
Definition Distillate obtained exclusively from the distillation of recently fermented "pisco grapes", using methods which maintain the traditional principles of quality established in recognized production areas. ...is reserved to firewater produced and bottled, in consumable quantities, in Regions III and IV, elaborated by the distillation of genuine wine, originating from specified varietals, grown in said regions.
Grapes Non Aromatic: Quebranta, Common Black, Mollar

Aromatic: Italia, Muscat, Albilla, Torontel.

Yellow Muscat, White Early Muscat, Alexandria Muscat, Austrian Muscat, Frontignan Muscat, Hamburg Muscat, Black Muscat, Pink Muscat, Canelli Muscat, Orange Muscat, Pedro Jiménez , Torontel.
Production The fermentation process can be done with partial or total maceration of the grape, strictly controlling the temperature and decomposition of sugars. The grape juice is fermented into wine containing 14° alcohol (28 proof).
The fermented product is distilled in copper or stainless steel receivers to the desired alcoholic proof. No product may be added to alter the alcoholic proof, odor, flavor or color of the liquid. The fermented product is distilled in copper receivers until an alcoholic proof of 55° to 60° is reached. Rectifiers must be added if the alcoholic proof is less than that specified.
The pisco must be aged a minimum of three months in glass, stainless steel or other materials which do not alter the physical, chemical or organic properties before bottling. The crude firewater is aged in wood for a short time, usually not more than a few months. Higher quality brands may be aged in oak barrels for a longer time.
The pisco must be bottled directly after aging, without alteration or adding any product which could alter the odor, flavor or appearance. The firewater from different distilleries is mixed, diluted with demineralized water in order to lower the alcoholic proof to the desired level, filtered and bottled.
Alcohol Content
38° to 48° (76 to 96 proof)
30° to 50° (60 to 100 proof)
Designated Pisco Areas Departments of Lima, Ica (Ica, Chincha,Pisco), Arequipa, Moquegua and the Locumba, Sama and Caplina valleys in the Department of Tacna. Atacama, Coquimbo.

Dispute

There is a long-standing debate between Peru and Chile as to the rightful owner of the "pisco" denomination, as it can be clearly seen by the specifications listed above, there is a difference between the products. Peru claims proprietorship on the basis of historical arguments, mainly that pisco originated in Peru and is still made in the traditional way only in Peru, where the regulations ensure this. Many also push the argument that Chile simply "stole" pisco production from Peru during the War of the Pacific and, therefore, cannot claim it as a national product. Chile also claims that its larger production and marketing efforts have popularized pisco, and that what the world recognizes as pisco today is the Chilean variety.

Both nations have established decrees, laws, regulations, treaties, etc. in order to protect their pisco product as the canonical pisco, though their efforts have been markedly opposite. Chile has concentrated on internal regulations, specifying from what a "pisco grape" is to what a "pisco bottle" is, in order to establish standardization among its products. This way, Chile started to trade and promote its product as Pisco. On the other hand, concentrated more in the artesanal and traditional production, started to focus on the international arena claiming for an Origin Denomination arguing that only Peruvian Pisco can be called Pisco and chilean produdct is another type of Aguardiente. However, Chile has traded far more its chilean pisco but only Peruvian Pisco has been the only one recognized by the Treaty of Lisbon with an Origin denomination.

Chile actions

  • 1873 National decree, which opened a register to track national producers and trademarks for pisco.
  • 1916 - 1954: Chilean pisco was exempted from all taxes imposed on alcoholic beverages.
  • 1931: Law Decree 181 defined pisco as distilled wine brandy produced in Regions III & IV
  • 1936: Law Decree 5.798 changed the name of "La Unión" to "Pisco Elqui" to associate it with pisco production.
  • 1954 - 1974: Chilean pisco was taxed at 50% the rate for all alcoholic beverages.
  • 1974: Law Decree 826 established a 40% tax on local alcoholic beverages and a 90% tax on all imported alcoholic beverages.
  • 1977; Law Decree 2.057 reduced the tax on pisco to 25% and to 30% for all other alcoholic beverages.
  • 1983: Tax on non-pisco alcoholic beverages was increased to 50%
  • 1984: Tax on whisky increased to 55%, all other alcoholic beverages except pisco lowered to 30%, pisco remained at 25%
  • 1985: Law Decree 18.455 established "pisco" as reserved to firewater produced and bottled, in consumable quantities, in Regions III and IV, elaborated by the distillation of genuine wine, originating from specified varietals, grown in said regions.
  • 1986: Supreme Decree 78 established allowed additives, grape varieties and zones for production of firewater to be named "pisco". It also designated the different varieties of pisco according to alcoholic proof. This also established that the 'only' difference between the varieties is the alcohol content.
  • 1998: Created a de facto monopoly by fusing the two largest pisco manufacturers, whose combined market share was 98%.
  • 1997: Law Decree 19.534 established pisco tax at 25%, whisky at 70% and all other alcoholic beverages at 30%, imported alcoholic beverages add a 50% tax.

International

  • 1996: trade agreement with Canada regarding recognition "Chileann pisco" as a geographical indication of Chile.
  • 1998: trade agreement with Mexico regarding recognition "Pisco" as a designation of origin of Chile, without prejudice to denominating any product from Peru as "pisco".
  • 2002: association agreement with European Union introduced text regarding recognition "Pisco" as a designation of origin of Chile, without prejudice to denominating any product from Peru as "pisco".
  • 2003: trade agreements with U.S. regarding recognition "Chilean pisco" as a distinctive product.
  • 2003: trade agreements with Korea regarding recognition "Pisco" as a designation of origin of Chile, without prejudice to denominating any product from Peru as "pisco".
  • 2005: P-4 agreement with New Zealand, Singapore and Brunei regarding recognition "Pisco" as a designation of origin of Chile.
  • 2005: trade agreements with People's Republic of China regarding recognition "Chilean pisco" as a geographical indication of Chile.
  • 2007: strategic economic agreements with Japan regarding recognition "Chilean pisco" as a geographical indication of Chile.

Peru actions

  • 1932: Supreme Resolution N° 52, restricted the use of the designation "grape based brandy".
  • 1931: Made it compulsory to serve Peruvian wines and liquors in official acts held in the Government House.
  • 1940: Ministerial Resolution, prohibited the admission of cane brandy to the viticulture area of pisco.
  • 1941: Supreme Resolution N° 151, stipulated the restricted use of grape brandy and cognac.
  • 1946: Supreme Resolution N° 1207, defined the designations of pisco, grape based aguardiente and others.
  • 1947: Ministerial Resolution, ratified the prohibitions regarding the use of sugar in manufacturing molasses, spirits, brandy and wine.
  • 1950: Director’s Resolution N° 13, pointed out the date and terms for distillation of musts, watery wines and for washing spirits in the preparation process of grape based brandy.
  • 1963: Sanitary Code of Foods in which "pisco" was defined as the product obtained from the distillation of fermented grape musts.
  • 1963: Law N° 14729, established a 4% tax rate upon the gross trade value of alcoholic beverages in Peru, exempting pisco. This measure was taken as a means of fostering its preparation. This law stipulated that this tax affected cane brandies, wine, spirits, beers and any kind of alcoholic beverage and similar, exempting Peruvian grape based pisco and wine.
  • 1964: Supreme Resolution N° 519-H, established the use of visible signs that make it easy for payment of taxes on the sale of alcoholic beverages.
  • 1988: Resolution No. 179, issued by the National Institute of Culture where the word "pisco" was declared National Cultural Heritage.
  • 1990: Supreme Decree N° 023-90, stipulated that denominations of origin should be recognized by ITINTEC, thus including the above-mentioned principle in Peruvian law.
  • 1990: Director’s Resolution N° 072087-DIPI, issued by the Industrial Property Bureau, stated that the designation of "pisco" has a Peruvian origin and refers to products resulting from the distillation of wines derived from the fermentation of fresh grapes in the coastline of the Lima, Ica, Arequipa, and Moquegua departments, and the valleys of Locumba, Sama and Caplina in the Tacna Department.
  • 1991: Supreme Decree N° 001-91-ICTI/IND, officially recognized "pisco" as a denomination of Peruvian origin for products obtained by distillation of wine derived from the fermentation of fresh grapes in the coastline of Lima, Ica, Arequipa, Moquegua and the valleys of Locumba, Sama and Caplina in the department of Tacna.
  • 1995: Law N° 26426, regulated the production and commercialization of national alcoholic beverages.
  • 2001: Supreme Resolution Nº 247-2001-Itinci, established the Multisectorial Committee in charge of preparing a regulatory proposal corresponding to the creation of Ruling Councils and the Ruling Council of the Denomination of Origin Pisco.

International

  • Bolivia: Resolution Nº OPIB/D.O/01/98 from the Intellectual Property Bureau of Bolivia dated January 5, 1998.
  • Ecuador: Resolution Nº 0962384 of the Industrial Property National Bureau, published in January 15, 1998.
  • Colombia: Resolution No. 01529 of the Superintendence of Industry and Commerce of Colombia dated February 1, 1999.
  • Venezuela: Resolution Nº 0345 of the Autonomous Service of Intellectual Property published in the Bulletin of Industrial Property of Venezuela dated May 8, 1998.
  • Panama: Decree Nº 1628 of the General Bureau of Registry of Intellectual Property of the Ministry of Commerce and Industry by which Resolution No. 8871 No. 8871 dated July 27, 1999 is issued.
  • Guatemala: Final Resolutions of files 2801-97 and 2802-97 of the Registry of Intellectual Property dated June 12, 1998.
  • Nicaragua: Resolution No. 2911435 of the Ministry of Promotion, Industry and Commerce dated September 1, 1999.
  • Costa Rica: Registry No 114662 of the Registry of Intellectual Property of the Ministry of Justice and Grace dated July 2. 1999.
  • Cuba: Agreement entered between the Government of the Republic of Peru and the Republic of Cuba regarding the mutual recognition of protection of their denominations of origin dated October 10, 2000.
  • World Intellectual Property Organization received an application for international registration of an appellation of origin "pisco" like a beverage of Peruvian origin (Registry 065, July 2005). Such recognition applies to all states signing the Lisbon Treaty, but the member States have the right, within a period of one year from the date of receipt by that country of the notification, to issue a refusal of protection in relation to the appellation of origin in question (see further at Lisbon System for the International Registration of Appellations of Origin (WIPO)) Officially refused by France, Italy, Mexico, Costa Rica, Portugal, Hungary, Czech Republic, Slovakia and Bulgaria. Application remained unanswered by rest of members of the Lisbon System, those being Burkina Faso, North Korea, Cuba, Iran, Haiti, Serbia and Montenegro, Congo, Algeria, Gabon, Georgia, Nicaragua, Tunisia, Israel, Togo and Moldavia.

Cocktails

Some of the most popular cocktails with pisco include:

See also

References

  1. ^ a b "Pisco." The Oxford English Dictionary. 2nd ed. 1989.
  2. ^ http://www.mysanantonio.com/salife/travel/stories/MYSA123007.01Q.PiscoSours.108a94a.html
  3. ^ http://www.lonelyplanet.com/travelstories/article/piscosour_1007

External links

Wikimedia Commons has media related to pisco.

External Video Links


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