Missoula, Montana

"Missoula" redirects here. For other uses, see Missoula (disambiguation).

City of Missoula, Montana
City
Downtown Missoula, viewed from Caras Park
Seal
Nickname:  The Garden City
Motto:  "The Discovery Continues"
Location of Missoula in Montana
location of Missoula County
Country	United States
State	Montana
County	Missoula
Founded	1866
Government
• Mayor-council government	John Engen (D)
Area
• City	23.9 sq mi (61.9 km2)
• Land	23.8 sq mi (61.6 km2)
• Water	0 sq mi (0 km2)
• Urban	36.4 sq mi (94.2 km2)
Elevation	3,209 ft (978 m)
Population  (2010)
• City	66,788
• Density	2,795/sq mi (1,079/km2)
• Metro	109,299
Demonym	Missoulian
Time zone	UTC-7 (Mountain)
• Summer (DST)	UTC-6 (Mountain)
ZIP code	59801, 59802, 59803, 59804, 59806, 59807, 59808
U of M ZIP code	59812
Area code	406
FIPS code	30-50200
GNIS feature ID	0787504
Highways
Website	ci.missoula.mt.us

Missoula /mˈzuːlə/ is a city in the U.S. state of Montana and is the county seat of Missoula County. It is located along the Clark Fork and Bitterroot rivers in Western Montana and at the convergence of five mountain ranges, thus is often described as being the "Hub of Five Valleys". The 2010 Census put the population of Missoula at 66,788 and the Missoula Metropolitan Area at 109,299. Since 2000, Missoula has been the second largest city in Montana.

Missoula was founded in 1860 and named Hellgate Trading Post while still part of Washington Territory. By 1866, the settlement had moved five miles upstream and renamed Missoula Mills before being shortened to Missoula. The desire for a more convenient water supply to power a lumber and flour mill led to the movement of the settlement to its modern location in 1864. The mills provided supplies to western settlers traveling along the Mullan Road with Fort Missoula, set up in 1877 to protect the settlers, further stabilizing the economy. The arrival of the Northern Pacific Railway in 1883 was coupled with rapid growth and the maturation of the local lumber industry. An element of prestige could be claimed ten years later when what was already called the City of Missoula was chosen by the Montana Legislature as the site for the new state’s first university. Along with the U.S. Forest Service headquarters founded in 1908, lumber and the university would remain staples of the local economy for the next hundred years.

By the 1990s, Missoula’s lumber industry had gradually disappeared, and today the city’s largest employers are the University of Montana and Missoula’s two hospitals. The city is governed by a mayor-council government with twelve city council members, two from each of the six wards. In and around Missoula are 400 acres (160 ha) of parkland, 22 miles (35 km) of trails, and nearly 5,000 acres (2,000 ha) of open-space conservation land with adjacent Mount Jumbo home to grazing elk and mule deer during the winter months. The city is also home to both Montana’s largest and its oldest active breweries as well as the Montana Grizzlies, one of the strongest college football programs in the Division I Football Championship Subdivision of the National Collegiate Athletic Association (NCAA). Notable residents include the first women in Congress, Jeanette Rankin and the United States’ longest-serving Senate Majority Leader Mike Mansfield.

History

Main article: History of Missoula, Montana

Teepees set up in modern-day Missoula south of the Clark Fork River, facing east

Archaeological artifacts date the Missoula Valley's earliest inhabitants to the end of the last ice age 12,000 years ago with settlements as early as 3,500 BCE. From the 1700s until European settlements began a hundred years later, the land was primarily used by populations of the Salish, Kootenai, Pend d'Oreille, Blackfeet, and Shoshone tribes. Located at the confluence of five mountain valleys, the Missoula Valley was heavily traversed by local and distant native tribes that periodically went to the Eastern Montana plains in search of bison, leading to inevitable conflict. The narrow valley at Missoula's eastern entrance was so strewn with human bones from repeated ambushes that French fur trappers would later refer to this area as "Porte d' Enfer," translated as "Hell's Gate". Hell Gate would remain the name of the area until it was renamed "Missoula" in 1866.

Western exploration to the area began with the Lewis and Clark Expedition, which stopped twice just south of Missoula at Traveler's Rest (first from September 9–11, 1805, and again from June 30-July 3, 1806) before splitting up on the return journey, with Clark taking the southern route along the Bitterroot River and Lewis travelling north through Hellgate Canyon on July 4. In 1860 Hell Gate Village was established just west of Missoula by Christopher P. Higgins and Francis Worden as a trading post to serve travelers of the recently completed Mullan Road, the first wagon road to cross the Rocky Mountains to the inland of the Pacific Northwest. The desire for a more convenient water supply to power a lumber and flour mill led to the movement of the settlement to its modern location in 1864.

Looking west toward the Bitterroot Mountains over Missoula from Mount Sentinel

The Missoula Mills replaced Hell Gate Village as the economic power of the valley and replaced it as the county seat in 1866. The name "Missoula" comes from the Salish name for the Clark Fork River, ‘’nmesuletkʷ’’, which roughly translates to "place of frozen water" and possibly refers to the ancient Glacial Lake Missoula once located in the valley. Fort Missoula was established in 1877 to help protect further arriving settlers. Growth accelerated with the arrival of the Northern Pacific Railway in 1883, and the Town of Missoula was chartered the same year. Ten years later, Missoula was chosen as the location of the state's first university, the University of Montana. The need for lumber for the railway and its bridges spurred the opening of multiple saw mills in the area and, in turn, the beginning of Missoula's lumber industry that would remain the mainstay of the area's economy for the next hundred years. The continued economic windfall from railroad construction and lumber mills led to a further boom in Missoula's population. A.B. Hammond and Copper Kings Marcus Daly and William A. Clark competed fiercely in the region over lumber share and Missoula investments, and in 1908 Missoula became the district, and later a regional, headquarters for the United States Forest Service, which also began training smokejumpers in 1942.

Logging remained a mainstay of industry in Missoula with the groundbreaking of the Hoerner-Waldorf pulp mill in 1956, a groundbreaking which led to protests over the resultant air pollution. An article in Life Magazine thirteen years later speaks of Missoulians sometimes needing to drive with headlights on during the day to navigate through the smog. In 1979, still almost 40% of the county's labor income came from the wood and paper products sector. The lumber industry was hit hard by the recession of the early 1980s, and Missoula's economy began to diversify. By the early 1990s the disappearance of many of the region's log yards, along with legislation, had helped clean the skies dramatically.

Today, education and healthcare are Missoula's leading industries with the University of Montana and the city's two hospitals acting as three of the largest employers. St. Patrick Hospital and Health Sciences Center, founded in 1873, is the region's only Level II trauma center and has undergone three major expansions since the 1980s. Likewise, the University of Montana grew 50% and built or renovated 20 buildings from 1990-2010. It is expected that these industries as well as expansions in business and professional services, and retail will be the main engines of future growth.

Geography

Missoula Valley

Missoula is located at the western edge of Montana approximately 45 miles from the Idaho border. The city is at an altitude of 3,209 feet (978 m) with nearby Mount Sentinel and Mount Jumbo steeply rising to 5,158 ft (1,572 m) and 4,768 ft (1,453 m) respectively. According to the United States Census Bureau, the city has a total area of 23.9 square miles (62 km²), of which 23.8 square miles (62 km²) is land and 0.1 square miles (0.26 km²) (0.46%) is water.

Approximately 13,000 years ago the entire valley was at the bottom of Glacial Lake Missoula and as could be expected for a former lake bottom, the layout of Missoula is relatively flat and surrounded by steep hills. Evidence of the city of Missoula's lake-bottom past can be seen in the form of ancient wave-cut shorelines that can now be seen as horizontal lines on nearby mountains Mount Sentinel and Mount Jumbo. At the location of present-day University of Montana, the lake once had a depth of 950 feet (290 m). The Clark Fork River enters the Missoula Valley from the east through Hellgate Canyon after joining the nearby Blackfoot River at the site of the former Milltown Dam. The Bitterroot River and multiple smaller tributaries join the Clark Fork on the western edge of Missoula. The city also sits at the convergence of five mountain ranges: the Bitterroot Mountains, Sapphire Range, Garnet Range, Rattlesnake Mountains, and the Reservation Divide, thus is often described as being the "Hub of Five Valleys".

Ancient wave-cut shorelines can still be seen on the edge of Mount Sentinel.

Flora and fauna

Located in the Northern Rockies Missoula has a typical Rocky Mountain ecology. Local wildlife includes populations of white-tailed deer, black bears, osprey, and bald eagles. During the winter months, rapid snow melt on Mount Jumbo due to its steep slope leaves grass available for grazing elk and mule deer. The rivers around Missoula provide nesting habitats for bank swallows, northern rough-winged swallows and belted kingfishers. Killdeer and spotted sandpipers can be seen foraging insects along the gravel bars. Other species include song sparrows, catbirds, several species of warblers, and the pileated woodpecker. The rivers also provide cold, clean water for native fish such as westslope cutthroat trout and bull trout. The meandering streams also attract beaver and wood ducks.

Native riparian plant life includes sandbar willows and cottonwoods with Montana's state tree, the Ponderosa Pine, also being prevalent. Other native plants include wetland species such as cattails and beaked-sedge as well as shrubs and berry plants like Douglas hawthorn, chokecherry, and western snowberries. To the chagrin of local farmers, Missoula is also home to several noxious weeds which multiple programs have set out to eliminate. Notable ones include dalmatian toadflax, spotted knapweed, leafy spurge, St. John's wort, and sulfur cinquefoil. Controversially, the Norway Maples that line many of Missoula's older streets have also been declared an invasive species.

Climate

Missoula has a semi-arid climate (Köppen climate classification BSk), with cold and moderately snowy winters, hot and dry summers, and spring and autumn are short and crisp in between. Winter conditions are usually far milder than much of the rest of the state due to its western position within the state. However the mildness is also induced by the dampness, as unlike much of the rest of the state, precipitation is not at a strong minimum during winter. Winter snowfall averages 43 inches (109 cm), with most years seeing very little of it from April to October. Summers see very sunny conditions, with highs peaking at 84 °F (28.9 °C) in July. However, temperature differences between day and night are large during this time and from April to October, due to the relative aridity.

Climate data for Missoula, Montana (Missoula Airport)
Month	Jan	Feb	Mar	Apr	May	Jun	Jul	Aug	Sep	Oct	Nov	Dec	Year
Record high °F (°C)	59 (15)	66 (19)	75 (24)	87 (31)	95 (35)	98 (37)	107 (42)	105 (41)	99 (37)	85 (29)	73 (23)	60 (16)	107 (42)
Mean daily maximum °F (°C)	30.8 (−0.67)	37.4 (3.0)	48.1 (8.9)	58.0 (14.4)	66.1 (18.9)	74.5 (23.6)	83.6 (28.7)	83.2 (28.4)	71.5 (21.9)	57.4 (14.1)	40.0 (4.4)	30.3 (−0.94)	56.7 (13.7)
Mean daily minimum °F (°C)	16.2 (−8.8)	20.5 (−6.4)	27.1 (−2.7)	32.4 (0.2)	39.3 (4.1)	45.9 (7.7)	50.2 (10.1)	49.3 (9.6)	40.6 (4.8)	31.4 (−0.33)	24.0 (−4.4)	16.5 (−8.6)	32.8 (0.4)
Record low °F (°C)	−33 (−36)	−27 (−33)	−13 (−25)	14 (−10)	21 (−6.1)	30 (−1.1)	31 (−0.6)	30 (−1.1)	20 (−6.7)	0 (−18)	−23 (−31)	−30 (−34)	−33 (−36)
Average precipitation inches (mm)	1.06 (27)	.77 (20)	.96 (24)	1.09 (28)	1.95 (50)	1.73 (44)	1.09 (28)	1.15 (29)	1.08 (27)	.83 (21)	.96 (24)	1.15 (29)	13.82 (351)
Average snowfall inches (cm)	10.8 (27)	7.0 (18)	5.4 (14)	1.4 (3.6)	.4 (1.0)	0 (0)	0 (0)	0 (0)	0 (0)	.9 (2.3)	6.2 (16)	11.2 (28)	43.3 (110)
Average precipitation days (≥ 0.01 in)	13.3	10.1	11.7	10.7	11.9	11.3	8.0	7.9	7.8	7.6	11.6	12.8	124.7
Average snowy days (≥ 0.1 in)	10.5	7.2	5.8	2.0	.3	0	0	0	0	1.1	6.1	10.6	43.6
Mean monthly sunshine hours	96.1	135.6	210.8	246.0	279.0	312.0	390.6	334.8	264.0	195.3	99.0	83.7	2,646.9
Source: NOAA (normals 1971−2000), HKO (sun 1961−1990)

Demographics

Historical population

Census	Pop.	Note	%±
1870	400		—
1880	347		−13.2%
1890	3,426		887.3%
1900	4,366		27.4%
1910	12,896		195.4%
1920	12,668		−1.8%
1930	14,657		15.7%
1940	18,449		25.9%
1950	22,485		21.9%
1960	27,090		20.5%
1970	29,497		8.9%
1980	33,388		13.2%
1990	42,918		28.5%
2000	57,053		32.9%
2010	66,788		17.1%
source:

The 2010 Census put Missoula's population at 66,788 with the Missoula Metropolitan Statistical Area having 109,299. Both population parameters are the second largest in Montana. There currently are 24,141 households and 12,336 families residing in the city. The population density was 2,397.1 people per square mile (925.6/km²) in 2000. There were 25,225 housing units at an average density of 1,059.8 per square mile (409.2/km²). The racial makeup of the city was 93.57% White, 2.35% Native American, 1.23% Asian, 0.36% African American, 0.10% Pacific Islander, 0.51% from other races, and 1.87% from two or more races. Hispanic or Latino of any race were 1.76% of the population.

There were 24,141 households out of which 24.6% had children under the age of 18 living with them, 37.9% were married couples living together, 10.0% had a female householder with no husband present, and 48.9% were non-families. 33.6% of all households were made up of individuals and 8.9% had someone living alone who was 65 years of age or older. The average household size was 2.23 and the average family size was 2.88.

In the city the population was spread out with 19.7% under the age of 18, 20.7% from 18 to 24, 29.4% from 25 to 44, 19.8% from 45 to 64, and 10.4% who were 65 years of age or older. The median age was 30 years. For every 100 females, there were 98.8 males. For every 100 females age 18 and over, there were 97.1 males.

The median income for a household in the city was $30,366, and the median income for a family was $42,103. Males had a median income of $30,686 versus $21,559 for females. The per capita income for the city was $17,166. About 11.7% of families and 19.7% of the population were below the poverty line, including 20.5% of those under age 18 and 9.3% of those age 65 or over. 40.3% of Missoula residents age 25 and older have a bachelor's or advanced college degree.

Highest Educational Attainment Population 25 years and over (2010)		Missoula	Montana	U.S.
Less than 9th grade		2.4%	2.5%	6.1%
9th to 12th grade, no diploma		5.6%	5.8%	8.3%
High School Diploma or equivalent		21.5%	29.9%	28.5%
Some College		22.2%	25.1%	21.3%
Associates Degree		6.6%	7.9%	7.6%
Bachelor's Degree		25.4	19.8%	17.7%
Graduate or Professional Degree		16.3%	9.0%	10.4%
High School or higher		92.0%	91.7%	85.6%%
Bachelor's Degree or higher		41.7%	28,8%	28.2%%

Economy

Missoula began in the 1860s as a trading post on the Mullan Military Road to take advantage of the road's purpose of being the first route across the Bitterroot Mountains to the plains of Eastern Washington. The arrival of Fort Missoula (1877), the Northern Pacific Railroad (1883), and U.S. Forest Service offices (1877) solidified Missoula's economy with a steady stream of employment.

Timber demand for the railroad lead to the setting up of numerous saw mills, which were gradually consolidated, and the lumber industry remained important to the Missoula economy for much of the 20th century.

Today, Missoula's economy has diversified with Education, health care, retail, government, and professional services all playing an important part in the economy at large. In particular, the University of Montana is the region's largest employer, while St. Patrick Hospital and the Community Medical Center follow making Missoula the regional medical center.

Missoula is also a regional economic center; as of 2006 one survey showed Missoula as having a primary trade area of 100,086 and a secondary trade area of 93,272.. Missoula is the primary city of both the Missoula Basic Trading Area (BTA) as used by the FCC and the Missoula BEA Economic Area (EA) as determined by the US Department of Commerce. Each area covers the neighboring counties of Lake, Missoula, Ravalli, and Sanders Counties. Additionally, the Missoula BTA includes Granite County while the Missoula EA includes Flathead and Lincoln Counties. The two areas are both the second largest in Montana by population and are part of the regional Spokane-Billings Major Trading Area (MTA) and Spokane-Billings Major Economic Area (MEA) respectively.

According to the Montana Department of Labor and Industry, the fastest growing occupations for the state as a whole are Forensic Science Technicians, Medical Assistants, Industrial Engineers, Food Prep and Service, and Physical Therapist Assistants. The fastest growing industries are Administrative & Support Services, Administrative & Waste Services, Arts Entertainment & Recreation, Professional & Business Services, Professional & Technical Services, and Health Care & Social Assistance.

Culture

Main article: Culture in Missoula, Montana

Missoula's varied cultural attractions are largely influenced by the nearby University of Montana and the surrounding mountains and rivers. The city is host to the International Wildlife Film Festival, as well as the Big Sky Documentary Film Festival, the largest film event in Montana, which showcases over 100 non-fiction films from around the world. The Missoula Children's Theater is an international touring program that visits nearly 1,000 communities per year around the world.

File:Moose Drool.jpg

The Montana Museum of Arts and Culture, which officially became a state museum in 2001 and housed in a former Carnegie library, is one Montana's oldest cultural reserves with its permanent collection of more than 10,000 original works begun in 1894." Historic Fort Missoula is home to the Historic Museum dedicated to preserving the history of Western Montana and the Rocky Mountain Museum of Military History and the Northern Rockies Heritage Center. It was announced by the National Museum of Forest Service History in 2009 that it plans to build a National Conservation Legacy and Education Center in Missoula as well. Missoula is also home to an array of other art galleries such as the Monte Dolack Gallery, the Murphy-Jubb Fine Art gallery, and the Artists' Shop.

With Bayern Brewing opened in 1987 and Big Sky Brewing eight years later, Missoula is home to the oldest and the two largest microbreweries in the state of Montana. Missoula is also home to Kettle House Brewing Company, Draught Works, two pub houses, and hosts two beer festivals: The Garden City Brewfest and periodically the Montana Brewers Festival.

Montana Grizzlies football at Washington–Grizzly Stadium

The University of Montana, established in 1893 and opened in 1895, is the location of numerous public events including athletics, concerts, lectures, and conferences. It is the location of the Montana Museum of Arts and Culture (MMAC), the state's Regional Federal Depository Library, and houses the State Arboretum. The Montana Grizzlies football team is one of the most successful programs within the NCAA D-1 FCS level, winning nearly 90% of their home games at Washington–Grizzly Stadium averaging an attendance over 25,000. The Grizzlies men's and Lady Griz basketball teams have also been successful at the conference level where they both rank at or near the top in attendance, about 4000 and 3000 respectively. Missoula is also home to the Missoula Osprey, a rookie affiliate of the Arizona Diamondbacks; a Tier III Junior Ice Hockey, the Missoula Maulers, and the Hellgate Rollergirls.

File:Downtown Missoula pic.jpg

Caras Park

A system of public parks was developed in Missoula in 1902 with the donation of 42 acres along the Rattlesnake Creek for Greenough Park. Today the city boasts over 400 acres of parkland, 22 miles of trails, and nearly 5000 acres of open-space conservation land that make activities such as skiing, hiking, biking, and golf available throughout the year. Located at the confluence of three rivers (the Clark Fork, Bitterroot, and Blackfoot), the area is also popular for white water rafting and, thanks largely to the novel and subsequent film A River Runs Through It by Missoula-native Norman Maclean, is well-known for it's fly fishing. Additionally, Missoula has two aquatic parks, multiple golf courses, is home to the Adventure Cycling Association, and hosts what Runner's World called the "best overall" marathon in the nation. Caras Park, located just south of the historic Wilma Theatre downtown, was created as a result of a land reclamation project, and with its centralized, waterfront location has become the hub of Missoula's festivities including Out to Lunch, the International Wildlife Film Festival, First Night Missoula, Garden City BrewFest and offered intimate concert settings for artists such as Jewel, Chris Isaak, Santana, Ziggy Marley, and B.B. King. Located next to Caras Park is A Carousel for Missoula, a wooden, hand-carved and volunteer-built carousel.

Organizations and non-profits

Notable organizations and non-profits based in Missoula exemplify the city's fondness for the outdoors and reputation for promoting more liberal social causes. Included are state offices for the National Organization for the Reform of Marijuana Laws, Montana Hemp Council, National Endowment for the Humanities's affiliate Humanities Montana, Montana Justice Foundation, Forward Montana, the Montana Meth Project, and the Western Montana Gay & Lesbian Community Center.

Beyond the state level, Missoula is also home of the International Wildlife Film Festival, the Adventure Cycling Association, the Jeannette Rankin Peace Center, American Indian Business Leaders, Boone and Crockett Club, the Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation, and the Outdoor Writers Association of America.

Also located in Missoula are the Poverello Center, the largest emergency homeless shelter and soup kitchen in Montana, and Missoula Correctional Services, a non-profit company that runs a Pre-Release Center for the Montana Department of Corrections and coordinates various city and county programs such as Community Service, Misdemeanor Probation, Pretrial Supervision and the Alternative Jail Program.

Government and politics

Further information: List of mayors of Missoula, Montana

City Council
Mayor	John Engen
Ward 1	Dave Strohmaier/Jason Wiener
Ward 2	Adam Hertz/Cynthia Wolken
Ward 3	Stacy Rye/Bob Jaffe
Ward 4	Jon Wilkins/Caitlin Copple
Ward 5	Dick Haines/Mike O'Herron
Ward 6	Ed Childers/Marilyn Marler
Missoula County Legislators (House of Representatives)
HD 91	Tim Furey (D)
HD 92	Bryce Bennet (D)
HD 93	Dick Barrett (D)
HD 94	Ellie Hill (D)
HD 95	Diane Sands (D)
HD 96	Carolyn Squires (D)
HD 97	Michele Reinhart (D)
HD 98	Sue Malek (D)
HD 99	Betsy Hands (D)
HD 100	Champ Edmunds (R)
Missoula County Legislators (Senate)
SD 46	Carol Williams (D)
SD 47	Ron Erickson (D)
SD 48	Tom Facey (D)
SD 49	David Wanzenried (D)
SD 50	Cliff Larsen (D)

Missoula county courthouse

Missoula's sytem of government has changed four times since 1883 when an aldermanic form of government was approved with the town charter. The city adopted a commission-council form of government in 1911 with the opening of new City Hall and a council–manager government in 1954 before returning to an aldermanic form of government in 1959. Since January 1, 1997, Missoula has been governed in accordance with the Missoula City Charter, which calls for a mayor-council system of government.

The current system comprises a mayor and city treasurer elected in a city-wide vote and twelve city council members who must reside in and are elected from one of six wards with each ward having two council members. All positions are nominally nonpartisan. Council members and the mayor are elected to four-year terms with council-member elections being staggered to allow only one member from each ward to up for re-election. There are no term limits for either position.

Missoula's state legislative delegation is the second largest in the Montana Legislature and is represented by districts 91-100 in the Montana House of Representatives and districts 46-50 in the Montana Senate. Among these, Senate districts 47-49 (House districts 93-98) primarily represent the urban area while Senate districts 46 & 50 (House districts 91-92, 99-100) also include large sections of rural Missoula County. Having 14 Democrats and one Republican in its state legislative delegation, Missoula is known as a more liberal area than the rest of the state.

Though Missoula's political leanings may not be unique for a college town, it's initiative to make marijuana possession the lowest priority of law enforcement (2006) and symbolic resolutions calling on Congress to withdraw from Iraq (2007) and amend the U.S. Constitution to declare that "corporations are not human beings"(2011) often put it at odds with the rest of the state. In 2011, the Montana legislature with 68-32 Republican majority in the House attempted to overturn Missoula's marijuana law and revoke its ability to have an anti-discrimination ordinance that included the LGBT community. The marijuana initiative was successfully repealed while the other died in the Senate.

Despite Missoula's reputation as being the largest liberal-leaning county by population, it is not the most liberal county in Montana. Both Deer Lodge and Silver Bow County have more liberal voting records, though, this is likely due to strong union support in the two counties. However, Missoula's more liberal tendencies are still a relatively recent development with the county voting at least 6% more for the Democratic candidate than the rest of the state only since 1980 (this excludes 2000 where Ralph Nader received 15% of the county's vote). In fact, only since 1988 (excluding 2000) has the Democratic candidate received more votes than the Republican candidate. (It should be noted, however, that over 30% of Missoula County's population lives outside the city of Missoula). Before this, Missoula voted very closely with the rest of Montana or, actually, heavier Republican.

Presidential Election Results
Missoula (MSO), Montana (MT), and United States (US)

Year		Democrat					Republican					Other
Year	.	Candidate	MSO	MT	US	.	Candidate	MSO	MT	US	.	Candidate	MSO	MT	US
2008		Barack Obama	61	47	53		John McCain	35	49	46
2004		John Kerry	51	39	48		George W. Bush	46	59	51
2000		Al Gore	37	33	48		George W. Bush	46	58	48		Ralph Nader (Green)	15	6	3
1996		Bill Clinton	49	41	49		Bob Dole	36	44	41		Ross Perot (Independent)	13	14	8
1992		Bill Clinton	47	38	43		George Bush	30	35	37		Ross Perot (Reform)	23	26	19
1988		Michael Dukakis	54	46	46		George Bush	45	52	53
1984		Walter Mondale	45	38	41		Ronald Reagan	54	60	59
1980		Jimmy Carter	38	32	41		Ronald Reagan	47	57	51		John B. Anderson (Independent)	11	8	7
1976		Jimmy Carter	47	45	50		Gerald Ford	51	53	48
1972		George McGovern	46	38	38		Richard Nixon	52	58	61		John Schmitz (American Ind.)	2	4	1
1968		Hubert Humphrey	41	42	43		Richard Nixon	48	51	43		George Wallace (American Ind.)	8	7	14
1964		Lyndon Johnson	61	59	61		Barry Goldwater	38	41	39
1960		John F. Kennedy	46	49	50		Richard Nixon	54	51	50
1956		Adlai Stevenson	39	43	42		Dwight Eisenhower	61	57	57
1952		Adlai Stevenson	40	40	44		Dwight Eisenhower	59	59	55
1948		Harry Truman	51	53	50		Thomas Dewey	46	43	45		Henry A. Wallace (Progressive)	3	3	2
1944		Franklin D. Roosevelt	50	54	53		Thomas Dewey	49	45	46
1940		Franklin D. Roosevelt	57	59	55		Wendell Willkie	42	40	45
1936		Franklin D. Roosevelt	71	69	61		Alfred Landon	25	28	37
1932		Franklin D. Roosevelt	55	59	58		Herbert Hoover	40	36	40		Norman Thomas (Socialist)	6	4	2
1928		Alfred Smith	39	41	41		Herbert Hoover	60	58	58
1924		John W. Davis	13	19	29		Calvin Coolidge	30	43	54		Robert LaFollette (Progressive)	58	38	17
1920		James Cox	39	32	60		Warren G. Harding	53	61	34		Parley P. Christensen (Farmer-Labor)	8	7	1
1916		Woodrow Wilson	54	57	49		Charles Evans Hughes	39	38	46		Allan L. Benson (Socialist)	7	5	3
1912		Woodrow Wilson	33	35	42		William Taft	13	23	23		Theodore Roosevelt (Progressive	38	28	27
1908		William Jennings Bryan	44	43	43		William Taft	46	47	52		Eugene Debs (Socialist)	9	9	3
1904		Alton B. Parker	36	34	38		Theodore Roosevelt	45	54	56		Eugene Debs (Socialist)	17	9	3
1900		William Jennings Bryan	57	59	46		William McKinley	42	40	52
1896		William Jennings Bryan	86	80	47		William McKinley	14	20	51
1892		Grover Cleveland	46	40	46		Benjamin Harrison	40	42	43		James B. Weaver (Populist)	14	17	9
♦ Montana became a state in 1889 Missoula (MSO), Montana (MT), and United States (US)

Education

See also: University of Montana

Picture of the University of Montana campus, showing Mount Sentinel with the M Logo, the Grizzly mascot, and University (Main) Hall

Missoula's first school was opened in the fall of 1869 with 16 students from around the region and their teacher Emma C. Slack who had come to Missoula via a two-month trip by horseback, railroad, and boat from Baltimore at the invitation of her brother. She resigned two years later upon marrying William H.H. Dickinson (the first couple married in Missoula) and was replaced by Elizabeth Countryman who would later marry Missoula's first mayor Judge Frank H. Woody. The first public high school was opened in 1904 but was quickly overran with students and was converted back to a grade school after the A.J. Gibson designed Missoula County High School was opened in 1908. After several expansions, Stanford University was commissioned in 1951 to create a master building plan that would deal with future growth. It suggested purchasing land and building an additional campus at the Garden City Airport's Hale Field which was gradually being replaced by the Missoula County Airport west of town. The new school was opened in 1957. Initially the two campuses were separated between upper and lower classmen with upper classmen in the new school, but in 1965 the two campuses became separate high schools. By student vote, the original Missoula County High School became Hellgate High School and the new campus became Sentinel High School. In 1980, Missoula became the first city in Montana to have four secondary schools when Big Sky High School was established. Six years earlier Loyola Sacred Heart High School, a private Catholic school, was created from a merger of the all-girls Sacred Heart Academy (est. 1873) and the all-boys Loyola High School (est. 1911).

Missoula's public schools are part of the Missoula County Public School (MCPS) District 1 which is overseen by the Montana Office of Public Instruction. MCPS operates nine Elementary Schools (grades K-5), three Middle Schools (grades 6-8), and five High Schools which also encompass the elementary school districts of Bonner, Clinton, DeSmet, Hellgate, Lolo, and Target Range. Missoula also has several private schools including an international school, religious-affiliated schools, as well as Next Step Prep, a summer theater arts academy for high schoolers opened by the Missoula Children's Theatre in 2009.

Higher education in Missoula is dominated by the main campus of University of Montana. The university, established in 1893, is the first and largest (15,642 students in 2010) university in Montana. The campus houses 6 colleges and 3 schools including Montana's only Law School). Also affiliated with the university is the University of Montana College of Technology which was established in 1956 and formerly known as the Missoula Vocational Technical Center and offers fast-track learning programs. Multiple vocational programs not affiliated with the university ranging from photography and massage to truck driving also have a presence in Missoula.

Media

Main article: Media in Missoula, Montana

Broadcast: Missoula's television media market has been the largest in the state of Montana since 2002 and ranked #166 nationally (2010). Though Missoula itself is second in population to Billings, Montana, Missoula's media market includes all of Missoula, Ravalli, Granite, Mineral, Lake, Flathead, and Sanders Counties in the more densely populated western region of Montana and serves over 113,000 television homes (2011). Missoula is home to three local affiliate channels: KPAX-TV (CBS/MTN, The CW; founded 1970; channel 8), KECI-TV (NBC; founded 1954 as KGVO-TV; channel 13, and KTMF (ABC, FOX; founded 1991). Also based in Missoula at the University of Montana is Montana PBS (founded 1984; channel 11). There are also 4 AM and 17 FM radio stations licensed in the city (List of Stations).

Print: Missoula has four main sources of print media: the Missoulian (primary daily), Missoula Independent (alternative weekly), Montana Kaimin (college), and New West (digital, progressive). The Missoulian was founded as a weekly publication in 1870 as the Missoula & Cedar Creek Pioneer. It was converted to a weekly and changed to the current Missoulian in 1891 by the founder of the Missoula Mercantile Co., A. B. Hammond. Today, the Missoulian remains Missoula's most popular newspaper with a circulation of over 26,000. It is also the third most read newspaper in Montana behind the Billings Gazette and the Great Falls Tribune. The Missoula Independent (founded 1991) is the largest weekly newspaper in Montana and the states only member of the Association of Alternative Newsweeklies. With over 21,000 readers it has twice the circulation of second place Billings Outpost. The newspaper is distributed free to more than 600 locations across Western Montana from Hamilton in the south to Whitefish in the north. The Montana Kaimin (founded 1891) is likewise distributee free throughout parts of Missoula with heavy student traffic from the University of Montana where the newspaper is printed M-F during the school year. New West was founded in 2005 as a left-leaning "next-generation media company" that focused on culture, environment, economy, and politics in the Rocky Mountain West.

Infrastructure

Health Care

Missoula has two primary health care facilities: The St. Patrick Hospital and Health Sciences Center and the Community Medical Center. St. Patrick was founded in 1873 under the sponsorship of the Sisters of Providence and is the only Level II trauma center in the region. It is the largest medical facility in Western Montana and has undergone three major expansions since the 1980s. The hospital has 195 acute-care beds, and in 2003 admitted over 9,700 patients. The name was changed from "St. Patrick Hospital" to "St. Patrick Hospital and Health Sciences Center" in 2000 to reflect an increasing involvement with national medical research and education. The Community Medical Center and its adjacent medical facilities are located near historic Fort Missoula and is part of a modern complex that includes a nursing home, the Missoula Crippled Children's Center and private offices. It was founded in 1922 as Thornton Hospital by Dr. Will Thornton and Dr. Charles Thornton. It has been at its current location since 1972 and is the only facility providing obstetrical and newborn care in Missoula County in addition to being the only hospital in western Montana that has a separate Pediatric Intensive Care Unit. The center is partnered with Seattle Children's Hospital The nearest Level I trauma center to Missoula is Harborview Medical Center in Seattle, Washington.

Utilities

The earliest Missoulians are recoreded as drawing their water directly from the Clark Fork River or nearby Rattlesnake Creek. The first "water system" consisted of a Native American known as "One-Eyed Riley" and his friend filling buckets of water from the Rattlesnake Creek and hauling them door to door on a donkey cart. Shortly thereafter in 1871 city co-founder Frank L. Worden began construction of a log pipe and wooden main system that flowed from the Rattlesnake Creek 2 1/2 miles north of the city. With the addition of two small covered reservoirs, the first municipal water system was begun in 1880. With an intake dam built in 1901 with a settling basin capacity of 3 million gallons, the Rattlesnake Creek continued to meet demands of the city until 1935 when five wells were added to augment demand from the summer and autumn months. This system is still maintained as an emergency back-up, but was discontinued as a primary source in 1983 when a Giardia problem arose. Since then, Missoula has relied on the Missoula Valley Aquifer as the sole source of water.

In 1889, the first electrical plant was built by A. B. Hammond to power his major downtown properties such as the Missoula Mercantile and the Florence Hotel. In 1905, the Missoula Mercantile Co. (then owned by Copper King William A. Clark purchased the water system and consolidated it with its vast electrical holdings to create the Missoula Light and Water Company (ML&W) a year later. Electricity and Water remained bundled after ML&W's sale to the Montana Power Company (MPC) in 1929 until 1979 when MPC sold off its water utility holdings as Mountain Water Company to Sam Wheeler's Park Water Company based in Downey, California. Mountain Water Company has been Missoula's provider of drinking water since. Following the deregulation of Montana's electricity market in 1997, Montana Power Company began to divest its energy business. MPC sold substantially all its electrical generating assets to PPL Montana in December 1997 and its energy transmission and distribution business to NorthWestern Corporation in February 2002. Despite filing for Chapter 11 bankruptcy in 2002, NorthWestern Corporation's subsidiary NorthWestern Energy is the primary provider of electric and natural gas service to Missoula in addition to the Rural Utilities Service's Missoula Electric Cooperative.

Local telephone service in the area is proved by CenturyLink and Blackfoot Telecommunications Group. Major cell phone providers include AT&T, Sprint, Verizon, and T-Mobile. Trash pickup in Missoula is handled by Allied Waste Industries and Grant Creek Water Systems. Allied Waste also handles recycling through a "Blue Bag" program where customers can purchase special blue bags to designate recyclables. Recycling has also been offered by Missoula Valley Recycling since 1992 and Garden City Recycling since 2010 which offer curbside pickup and Pacific Steel & Recycling which offers drop-off recycling.Sewer services is handled by the City of Missoula Wastewater Division.

City layout and development

See also: Buildings and structures in Missoula, Montana

Higgins Block in Downtown Missoula

In the mid-1860s C.P. Higgins and Francis Worden began plotting what would become the town of Missoula along the Mullan military road which followed the northern bank of the Clark Fork River. This road, known today in downtown Missoula as Front Street, intersected by Higgins Avenue which in 1873 added a bridge to cross to the southern side of river. This intersection became the default center of the city, and today is still the numerical center regarding street addresses. The arrival of the Northern Pacific Railway in 1883 led to a housing boom along the tracks, particularly on the northern side where many of the railway workers would reside. When the Higgins Avenue Bridge was replaced in 1893 there was debate of whether the bridge should continue angled toward the Bitterroot Valley as it had earlier or straight across so as to be oriented north and south. Attorneys W.M. Bickford and W.J. Stephens had already laid out plots of land five years earlier for what they hoped would be a new town of "South Missoula" that were perpendicular to the Bitterroot Wagon Road while Judge Hiram Knowles who owned the land just south of the river preferred the north-south plan and did not want to become part of South Missoula anyway. The result was a 7x14 block area along the west side of Higgins Avenue commonly referred to as the Slant Streets centered along what is now Stephens Avenue. Stephens Avenue and Brooks Street are the only arterials to traverse the city diagonally along with the Bitterroot Branch of Montana Rail Link. The rest of the city with the exception of Downtown, where streets follow the angle of the river, and newer expansions into the hills strictly follow the grid plan. With the establishment of the University of Montana in 1893 and the announcement that the now-defunct Milwaukee Road would be located south of the river houses began to spread quickly throughout the university and south side districts. The area near the university was promoted as high-end and soon luxurious homes appeared on Millionaires Row on Hammond (now Gerald) Avenue. The arrival of Interstate 90 in the mid-1960s forced the removal of 60 homes, including the Greenough Mansion. The north side of Missoula became isolated between the Interstate and the tracks while the Greenough Mansion was moved to a South Hills golf course and converted to a restaurant. This dichotomy has prevailed with the North Side feeling neglected by the city and the South Hills becoming the city's new upscale region. With the release of the latest Missoula Downtown Master Plan in 2009 increased emphasis was directed toward redeveloping the North Side's former rail yard and the area just south of the tracks.

Overall, the city is officially divided into eighteen neighborhood councils of which all Missoula residents are a member. The city further contains ten historical districts: Downtown Missoula, East Pine Street, Fort Missoula, Lower Rattlesnake, McCormick, Missoula County Fairgrounds, Northside, Southside, University Area and, the University of Montana Campus. Also, as the primary city of the Missoula Metropolitan Statistical Area, all other communities within Missoula County also being part of said area. This includes Bonner-West Riverside, Clinton, East Missoula, Evaro, Frenchtown, Lolo, Orchard Homes, Seeley Lake, Wye, and Condon

Trail System

Missoula has an extensive trail system for both commuting and recreation that extend over 22 miles (35 km). The city is actively trying to connect its various sections within the city to each other and to recreational trails extending beyond the city. The heart of the Missoula Commuter Bike Network are the trails along either side of the Clark Fork River that link Downtown with surrounding neighborhoods, the university, city parks, and outlying open space with smooth surfaces and three bicycle/pedestrian bridges. The southern of these trails follows the path of the former Milwaukee Railroad, and thus is also known as the Milwaukee Trail, continues east out of town as the Kim Williams Nature Trail beside Mount Sentinel. The Bitterroot Branch Trail connects to the Riverfront trails west of Downtown and, when completed, will provide a trail from the Downtown region to Southgate Mall. Near the Bitterroot Branch Trail, but not connected, is the South Avenue Trail on the west side of Reserve Street that connects the Community Medical Center with Fort Missoula, nearby athletic fields, and the Bitterroot River. The South Hills neighborhood has its own system of trails that is also approaching, but not quite meeting, the larger network.

File:Missoula Panorama 2.jpg

Panorama of Downtown Missoula looking north.

Transportation

Due to its rural location, highway access is especially important to Missoula. Interstate 90 runs west to east along the northern edge of Missoula at the base of the North Hills with all but a small portion of the city located south of the highway. Completed in 1965 at the expense of 60 homes, the Garden City Brewery and the Greenough Mansion, I-90 has four city exits and makes connections with U.S. Route 93, U.S. Route 12, and MT 200. The original U.S. 12, approved by the AASHO in 1939 to extend west into Montana did not include Missoula until the highway was rerouted along State Route 6 in October 1959 and was not extended west from Missoula until 1962. The road now crosses Missoula diagonally from the southwest corner of the city east toward Helena. U.S. 93 serves as a major economic corridor for western Montana connecting Missoula with the Bitterroot Valley communities to the south and Flathead Lake, Kalispell, and Glacier National Park to the north. Montana Highway 200,the longest state highway in the United States enters Missoula from the east and provides access along the Blackfoot River and a direct route to Great Falls.

Public transportation in Missoula began as early as 1890 with a horse-drawn streetcar system (electrified in 1910) operated by the Missoula Street Railway Company that connected Downtown Missoula with the university as well as Bonner,the fairgrounds and Fort Missoula. These streetcars were then replaced by buses in 1932 due to cost. Bus service today is provided by Mountain Line, a public transit agency created by public vote in 1976 as part of the Missoula Urban Transportation District (MUTD) that began operation in December 1977. Mountain Line operates twelve bus routes within a 36-square-mile (93 km²) area, serving Missoula, East Missoula, Bonner, Target Range, Rattlesnake, Mullan Road, and the airport. Additionally the line has offered paratransit services since 1991 to assist the disabled, senior van since 2008, and has four park-n-ride lots throughout Missoula. Special bus service is offered to the University of Montana through three of the city's park-n-ride lots in addition to a late-night UDASH shuttle that offers service to and from Downtown.

Intercity rail travel began with the arrival of the Northern Pacific Railway in 1883 and continued until 1979 when Amtrak discontinued its North Coast Hiawatha route which ran through southern Montana. A feasibility study was commissioned by Congress in 2008 to examine the merits of reopening the North Coast Hiawatha, but currently the nearest rail station to Missoula is the Whitefish station of the Empire Builder 136 miles (219 km) to the north. Direct intercity ground travel needs are now provided by bus carriers Greyhound Lines, and Rimrock Trailways.

Air travel to Missoula began in 1927 and is today served by Missoula International Airport at (Johnson-Bell Field), a public airport run by the Missoula County Airport Authority. It is currently the largest airport in western Montana, serving 582,821 passengers in 2011. The current building contains three 3 jet bridges and 3 ground-level boarding gates, offers year-round direct flights to 7 destinations (Denver, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Minneapolis, Phoenix, Salt Lake City, and Seattle) and seasonal flights to Chicago, Portland, and San Francisco). Four airlines operate out of Missoula (Allegiant Air, Delta Air Lines, Horizon/Alaska Airlines, and United Airlines) in addition to the Air Cargo Carriers FedEx, and UPS. The airport is also home to Homestead Helicopters and Fixed-Base Operators Minuteman Jet Center (an Exxon Mobil Avitat fuel provider), and Northstar Jet (a Phillips 66 fuel provider).

Notable people

Jeanette Rankin, the first woman in Congress was born and raised in Missoula

Main article: List of people from Missoula, Montana

See also: List of University of Montana alumni

Missoula has produced and been home to a number of notable individuals in varying fields. Its natives and residents are referred to as "Missoulians". In politics, Jeanette Rankin, the first woman in congress, was born and raised in Missoula while Senators Mike Mansfield, the U.S.'s longest serving Senate Majority Leader, and Max Baucus, Montana's current and longest serving U.S. Senator both established careers and joined politics while living in the city. Noted athletes who were born or resided in Missoula include 5 Olympic medalists, Pro Football Hall of Fame Quarterback John Elway, and former Milwaukee Bucks coach Larry Krystowiak. Actor Dana Carvey and filmmaker David Lynch were both born in Missoula while Carroll O'Connor and J.K. Simmons both attended the University of Montana. Academically, Missoula has been home to Nobel Prize winners Harold C. Urey and Steve Running as well as noted Montana historian K. Ross Toole and award-winning biologist Leroy Hood. Noted names in literature include Native-American poet James Welch, Richard Hugo who headed the University of Montana's Creative Writing Program,and Norman Maclean, whose A River Runs Through It chronicles his life in early-century Missoula.

Sister cities

Missoula has two sister cities, as designated by Sister Cities International:

• Neckargemünd, Germany
• Palmerston North, New Zealand

Missoula's Sister City relationship with Palmerston North, New Zealand began after Missoula resident and later University of Montana professor Harold Bockemuehl returned from obtaining his Ph.D from Massey University. The relationship was made official in 1983 after a meeting between then UM President Neil Bucklew and officials from Massey University. Recently Missoula began celebrating New Zealand Days in honor of the relationship with rugby, food, and entertainment. Missoula's second Sister City relationship began in 1991 after a Neckargemünd delegation, led by Mayor Oskar Schuster, visited Missoula following a Fulbright-sponsored faculty exchange between Heidelberg University and the University of Montana. Every September the Missoula Cultural Council holds an annual Germanfest to celebrate German culture and this relationship. Informally, the Missoula Cultural Council also fosters international connections with St. Malo and Beaune in France, Date City and Kumamoto in Japan, South Armagh in Ireland.

External links

• City website
• Missoula Visitors Bureau
• Missoula Chamber of Commerce
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