Vyshyvanka

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Portrait of a woman in vyshyvanka
Basic structure of garment

Vyshyvanka (Ukrainian: ″Вишива́нка″ [ʋɪʃɪˈʋanka] or ″Виши́ванка″ [ʋɪˈʃɪʋanka]) is the colloquial name for the embroidered shirt in Ukrainian national costume.[1][2] Vyshyvanka is distinguished by local embroidery features specific to Ukrainian embroidery:[2]

The vyshyvanka not only speaks of its Ukrainian origin but also of the particular region in which it was made. The knowing eye could detect where a person hailed from by the clothes on their back. Embroidery is thus an important craft within Ukraine and different techniques exist to suit local styles with their own particular patterns and colours. Traditionally, the thread was coloured according to local formulas using bark, leaves, flowers, berries and so on. In this way, the local environment is literally reflected in the colour of the embroidery.

— JJ Gurga, Echoes of the Past: Ukrainian Poetic Cinema and the Experiential Ethnographic Mode

History[edit]

Vyshyvanka is used as a talisman to protect the person wearing it and to tell a story.[3] Embroidery was used in vulnerable places on the garment where evil spirits could potentially enter the body: along the neckline, cuffs, shoulders, back and hem.[4]

Celebration[edit]

Vyshyvanka Day is celebrated on the third Thursday of May.[5] It is intended to unite all Ukrainians over the world, regardless of religion, language they speak or their place of residence.[6] It is a flash mob holiday, which is not attached to any public holiday or feast day.[7] On this day many Ukrainians wear vyshyvankas to demonstrate adherence to the idea of national identity and unity and to show their patriotism.

High fashion[edit]

During Paris Fashion Week 2015, Ukrainian fashion designer Vita Kin was featured in Vogue magazine[8] and Harper's Bazaar for introducing vyshyvankas as modern Bohemian style designs[9] that attracted fashion icons like Anna Dello Russo, Miroslava Duma, and Leandra Medine.[10]

In its US May issue Vogue wrote that the vyshyvanka has "made waves far past the Eastern European country".[11] The Times of London declared it "this summer's [2016] most sought-after item of clothing", soon following was the New York Times who advised readers to stock up on this "top of summer" fashion.[11] French actress Melanie Thierry wore a Vyshyvanka at the 2016 Cannes Film Festival.[11] Queen Máxima of the Netherlands wore a Vyshyvankadress when visiting the 2016 Summer Olympics.[11]

Gallery[edit]

Ruthenian immigrants to Canada in 1911 in traditional garment. 
A postcard printed in 1916 featuring a Ukrainian peasant lady in vyshyvanka and traditional wreath
At vyshyvanka parade – a popular event in modern Ukraine. 
Bukovina-style vyshyvanka. 

See also[edit]

References[edit]

  1. ^ Karolina Koziura (Spring 2014). "Everyday Ethnicity in Chernivtsi, Western Ukraine.". Anthropology of East Europe Review. Poland: Maria Curie-Sklodowska University. 32 (1). Archived from the original on 2014-06-04. Retrieved 2016-01-30. 
  2. ^ a b JJ Gurga (September 2012). Echoes of the Past: Ukrainian Poetic Cinema and the Experiential Ethnographic Mode (PDF) (Ph.D.). University College London (UCL). pp. 189—190. Archived (PDF) from the original on 2015-10-22. Retrieved 2016-01-30. 
  3. ^ "У Києві відкрилася виставка вишиванок з усієї України (Vyshyvanka exhibition in Kyiv)". 1TV. 2015-09-11. Archived from the original on 2015-09-25. Retrieved 2016-01-29. 
  4. ^ Condra, Jill (2013). Encyclopedia of National Dress: Traditional Clothing Around the World. ABC-CLIO. p. 624. ISBN 978-0-313-37636-8. 
  5. ^ Rena Darsania (2015-06-04). "Poltava celebrated the Day of vyshyvanka". PoltNTU press. Archived from the original on 2016-05-01. Retrieved 2016-05-01. 
  6. ^ Information and Communication Department of the Secretariat of the CMU (2015-05-21). "Cabinet of Ministers Secretariat celebrates Vyshyvanka Day". Government portal. Archived from the original on 2016-01-29. Retrieved 2016-01-30. 
  7. ^ "Deputy Minister of Information Policy Tetiana Popova Participates in Press Conference Dedicated to Vyshyvanka Day". Ministry of Information Policy of Ukraine. 2015-04-21. Archived from the original on 2016-01-29. Retrieved 2016-01-30. 
  8. ^ Liana Satenstein (Apr 28, 2015). "Your Favorite Bohemian Garb Is Actually Traditional Ukrainian Costume". Vogue. Retrieved 2015-04-28. 
  9. ^ Tara Lamont-Djite (Apr 14, 2015). "We're Obsessed:Vita Kin Introduces The Perfect Bohemia". Harper's Bazaar. Retrieved 2015-04-14. 
  10. ^ "DESIGNERS TO WATCH: Vyshyvankas by Vita Kin – Traditional Ukrainian Chic". Fashion For Fashionlovers. May 14, 2015. Retrieved 2015-05-14. 
  11. ^ a b c d Vyshyvanka: Ukraine's national costume conquers the catwalk, Yahoo! News (23 August 2016)

External links[edit]