Nail polish
Nail polish is a lacquer applied to human finger or toe nails to decorate and protect the nail plate. Today's nail polish is a refined version similar to the paint on vehicles. However, its formula has been revised repeatedly in order to prevent the cracking or flaking that occurs with the natural movement of the nail.[1]
History
Nail polish was originated in China, dating back to 3000 BC.[2][3] Around 600 BC during the Zhou Dynasty, the royal house had a preference for the colors gold and silver.[2] However, it would eventually transition to red and black.[2] During the Ming Dynasty, nail polish was often made from a mixture including beeswax, egg whites, gelatin, vegetable dyes, and gum Arabic.[2][3]
Egyptians used henna stains making their fingernails orange which would then turn dark red or brown after the stain matured.[4] In 1300 BC, the color of the nail polish symbolized the ranking of social class each individual earned: gold and silver were considered to be the royal colors; however, were later changed to black and red.[1][failed verification] The lower classes would wear pale colors and when the high society color changed to red, that is the color Cleopatra would often wear.[5]
By the turn of the 9th century, nails were tinted with scented red oils, and polished or buffed with a chamois cloth, rather than simply polished.[6] In the 19th and early 20th centuries, people pursued a polished rather than painted look by massaging tinted powders and creams into their nails, then buffing them shiny. One such polishing product sold around this time was Graf's Hyglo nail polish paste. Some people during this period painted their nails with an air brush. After the creation of automobile paint, Cutex produced the first modern nail polish in 1917 with the introduction of colored nail glosses.[7]
Once nail polish was refined, it was often used in the place of gloves to cover up the grime underneath the nails.[8]
Colored nail polish was also considered at one time self-mutilation and unhealthy by psychiatrists.[citation needed] Despite this, the first lady to wear solid colors was Eleanor Roosevelt.[9][verification needed]
Synthetic nail polish was introduced around the 1920s in Paris.[citation needed]
Ingredients
Nail polish today is a refined version of the paint on vehicles. Most nail polishes are made of nitrocellulose dissolved in a solvent (e.g. butyl acetate or ethyl acetate) and either left clear or colored with various pigments. Basic components include: film forming agents (silver halide), resins and plasticizers, solvents, and coloring agents. Adhesive polymers (e.g. tosylamide-formaldehyde resin) ensure that the nitrocellulose adheres to the nail's surface. Plasticizers (e.g. camphor) are chemicals that link between polymer chains, spacing them to make the film sufficiently flexible after drying. Pigments and sparkling particles (e.g. mica) add desired color and reflecting characteristics. In addition, coloring "may also be attributable to the presence of chemicals such as chromium oxide greens, chromium hydroxide, ferric ferrocyanide, ferric ammonium ferrocyanide, stannic oxide, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, carmine, ultramarines, and manganese violet.” In order to get that glittery/shimmer look in the color, mica, bismuth oxychloride, natural pearls, and aluminum powder are added into the ingredients of the nail polish.[1] Thickening agents (e.g. stearalkonium hectorite) are added to maintain the sparkling particles in suspension while in the bottle. Ultraviolet stabilizers (e.g. benzophenone-1) resist color changes when the dry film is exposed to direct sunlight. Along with Petroleum, with makes the nail polish smooth.
Nail polish makers are under pressure to reduce or to eliminate toxic ingredients, including phthalates, toluene, and formaldehyde. In September 2006, several makers agreed to phase out dibutyl phthalate, which has been linked to testicular problems in lab animals and humans, in updated formulations.[10] Some makers eliminated formaldehyde from their products, others still use it.[11] The city of San Francisco enacted a city ordinance, publicly identifying establishments that use nail polishes free of the "toxic trio" of toluene, dibutyl phthalate and formaldehyde.[12]
Studies performed on female rats discovered that DBP, also known as phthalates, have been causing birth defects. It was soon removed from the ingredients of nail polish as a precaution. "The amount of chemicals used in animal studies is probably a couple of hundred times higher than what you'd be exposed to from using nail polish every week or so," says Paul Foster, PhD, a senior fellow at the National Institute of Environmental Health Sciences, a division of the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services. "So the chance of any individual phthalate producing such harm is very slim."[13]
Water-based nail polish is based on an acrylic polymer emulsion (e.g. styrene-acrylate copolymer), and pigments similar to those used in watercolor paints.[citation needed] This is marketed as an environmentally-conscious product, since nail polish is considered a hazardous waste by some regulatory bodies such as the Los Angeles Department of Public Works).[14] In this application, the solvent (water) does not completely evaporate as in the case of the traditional nail polish; part of the water is absorbed through the fingernail.
In order to reduce the exposures of nail salon workers to the potentially dangerous chemicals found in nail polish, nail tables equipped with local exahust ventilation have been used in nail salons.[15] Researchers have been evaluating the effectiveness of the different local exhaust ventilation systems in ventilated nail tables. Preliminary findings have shown these ventilation systems have potential to reduce worker exposure to chemicals by at least 50%.[16]
Types of polish
Gel
This type of polish usually last two weeks longer than normal nail polishes. It is set under Ultraviolet (UV) light to seal the polish on to the nail, a process known as "curing." To remove the polish, one has to soak their nails in acetone for at least 10-15 minutes because the polish is sealed onto the nail so hard that it is difficult to remove. Gel lasts the longest and is the most preferred type of polish.[citation needed]
Base Coat
This type of nail polish is a clear colored polish formula that is used specifically before applying nail polish to the nail. The purpose of it is to help strengthen nails with protein, vitamin E and calcium which can help prevent nails from breakage and peeling, as well as to restore moisture into the nail. This is especially helpful for those with dry or brittle nails. By applying Base Coat, the polish forms a smooth surface by filling in ridges that can appear on unhealthy nails. There are two types of base coat: one is a normal formula where the consistency can be compared to regular nail polishes; the other is thicker in consistency, best for people with thinner nails, or who have deeper ridges. This helps fill in the gaps for a smooth surface. Base coat creates a barrier by protecting it from damages such as peeling and staining, especially red nail polishes, a pigment that tends to stain the nail yellow.[17]
Top Coat
This type of nail polish is a clear colored polish formula that is use specifically after applying nail polish to the nail. It forms a harden barrier for the nail to prevent chipping, scratching and peeling. It strengthen the nail and forms a glossy and shiny finishing touch to the nail. It is recommended that those who enjoy nail art to apply top coat to preserve the design for a longer period of time.[18]
Nail polish in fashion
Nail polish started traditionally in clear, red, pink, purple, and black. Since that time, many new colors and techniques have developed resulting in nail polish that is found in an extremely diverse variety of colors. Beyond solid colors, nail polish has also developed an array of other designs and colors, such as nail polish stamps, crackled, magnetic, nail polish strips and stickers. Fake rhinestones are also often applied. Some types of polish are advertised to cause nail growth, make nails stronger, prevent nails from breaking, cracking and splitting, and to stop nail biting. Nail polish may be applied as one of several components in a manicure.
Clear varnish is a transparent and glossy layer which can make the nails appear clean and shiny. This type of nail polish can be used over other varnish for gloss or by itself, as can glitter nail polish. The pigment of the clear nail polish can be altered by adding different shades of the colors of the rainbow. Colors can be mixed together to produce different shades of nail polish. Also, the colors white and black can be added to give the color a "tinted" look or a "darkened" look.[19] Similar to a clear varnish is an acrylic gel polish. This polish is much like the gel products used in nail salons, which is essentially a strong, clear top coat typically applied over a colored polish. The acrylic gel polish is more than just a glossy layer over nails; the polish gives the underlying color polish support and protection from being easily chipped.
French manicures are manicures designed to resemble natural nails, and are characterized by natural pink base nails with white tips, making it one of the first popular and well known color schemes with nail polish. The tips of the nails are painted white while the rest of the nails are polished in a pink or a suitable nude shade. French manicures may have originated in 18th-century Paris and were popular in the 1920s and 1930s.[20]
Black has been a popular color of nail polish with goths, emo and punks of both genders since the 1970s. However, black and dark nail colors were a huge trend as early as the 1930s. Men also began wearing nail polish in the mid 1970s. It began as a gothic trend but has recently developed into a more common style for men, worn both on fingernails and toenails.
Nail polish stamps and stickers that are most popular are animal prints, animals, and flowers. Despite this, there are an array of other stickers and stamps that can be found. Fake and real rhinestones are also often applied to nails for additional decoration.
Magnetic nail polish is often used to create patterns on the nails using a magnet. A few patterns that can be created are waves, layered effects, stars, chevrons, curves and many other patterns. This usually comes in a base color and the magnetic part comes in black or gray.
Nail polish remover
Nail polish is removed with nail polish remover or nail pads, which is an organic solvent, but may also include oils, scents and coloring. Nail polish remover packages may include individual felt pads soaked in remover, a bottle of liquid remover that can be used with a cotton ball or cotton pad, and even containers filled with foam that can be used by inserting a finger into the container and twisting until the polish comes off.
The most common type of nail polish remover contains the volatile organic compound[21] acetone. It is powerful and effective, but is harsh on skin and nails, which can even make them more brittle.[citation needed] It can also be used to remove artificial nails, which are usually made of acrylic.
Acetonitrile has been used as a nail polish remover, but is thought to be more toxic. It has been banned in the European Economic Area for cosmetics since 17 March 2000.[22][clarification needed]
Care
Nail polish is often applied to nails that are free of other polish. To ensure lasting color and a smooth application, several layers of a base coat polish are applied; once the first layer has been applied and dried, a second, and even a third layer may be applied. Then a clear top coat of nail polish may be applied, as the final step in the process, which keeps the polish from chipping off the fingernail.
References
- ^ a b c John Toedt; Darrell Koza; Kathleen Van Cleef-Toedt (2005). Chemical Composition Of Everyday Products. Greenwood Publishing Group. ISBN 978-0-313-32579-3.
- ^ a b c d Cleef-Toedt, John (2005). Chemical Composition Of Everyday Products. Greenwood Publishing Group. p. 49. ISBN 978-0-313-32579-3.
{{cite book}}:|first2=missing|last2=(help);|first3=missing|last3=(help) - ^ a b Sherrow, Victoria (2001). For appearance' sake : the historical encyclopedia of good looks, beauty, and grooming. Phoenix: Oryx Press. p. 119. ISBN 9781573562041.
- ^ http://www.hennapage.com/henna/encyclopedia/skin/stratum/sc3.html
- ^ http://www.lavillanailspa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=62&Itemid=67
- ^ "History of Nail Care". 2007.
{{cite web}}: Cite has empty unknown parameter:|coauthors=(help) Originally published in Nails magazine, 2007. - ^ http://ehis.ebscohost.com.ezproxy.uvu.edu/ehost/detail?vid=3&sid=757a3568-fce4-475c-ab28-54c4a52789d3%40sessionmgr115&hid=115&bdata=#db=ahl&AN=33231330
- ^ Trumble, Angus. "The History of Nail Polish". Wonders & Marvels.
- ^ Trumble, Angus. The Finger: A Handbook. Publication Date: May 11, 2010 | ISBN 0374154988 | ISBN 978-0374154981
- ^ Singer, Natasha. "Nail Polish Makers Yield on Disputed Chemical 7, 2006.
- ^ Nail polish manufacturers remove potentially harmful chemicals
- ^ Brown, Patricia Leigh. At Some Nail Salons, Feeling Pretty and Green.
- ^ Bender, M (2004). "Nail polish gets a healthy makeover": 34.
{{cite journal}}:|access-date=requires|url=(help); Cite journal requires|journal=(help) - ^ LA Dept of Public Works website
- ^ CDC - Nail Technicians' Health and Workplace Exposure Control - NIOSH Workplace Safety and Health Topic
- ^ Marlow, David A.; Looney, Timothy; Reutman, Susan (September 2012). "An Evaulation of Local Exhaust Ventilation Systems for Controlling Hazardous Exposures in Nail Salons (EPHB Report No. 005-164)" (PDF). Department of Health and Human Services, Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health. Retrieved 5 March 2013.
{{cite journal}}: Cite journal requires|journal=(help) - ^ Watson, Stephanie. "Do you need a base coat before you apply nail polish?".
{{cite web}}:|access-date=requires|url=(help); Missing or empty|url=(help) - ^ "Is clear polish = Top coat?". The times of India. Retrieved 2013-04-17.
- ^ Waskey, A. "Nail Polish". Retrieved 10 October 2012.
- ^ "What is Manicure & Hand Massage".
- ^ U.S National Safety Council, Environment Writer, 2006
- ^ Twenty-Fifth Commission Directive 2000/11/EC of 10 March 2000 adapting to technical progress Annex II to Council Directive 76/768/EEC on the approximation of laws of the Member States relating to cosmetic products. OJEC L65 of 14 March 2000, pp. 22–25.
Further reading
- Charles Panati, Extraordinary Origins of Everyday Things, Harper & Row, 1987
- Vanni Contingo, article published in Cosmopolitan magazine, copyright 2007
